For the very best prices on Samsung Replacement Lamps, visit Discount-Merchant.com.
Step 1. Identifying the correct lamp code Before placing an order online, you must identify which lamp code you need. The lamp code is located usually on the left side of the TV.
Again, the lamp code is NOT the back of the TV, but the left hand side as shown, on a red and white sticker.

Now that you have identified your lamp code, you can search for it on Discount-Merchant.com If you cannot find the lamp code on the side of your TV (remember on one side of your TV you’ll find the model and serial number, on the OPPOSITE side of the TV is where the RED and WHITE lamp code is located), that means you will need to proceed and take out the enclosure to physically verify which enclosure you have.
Step 2. Locating the Enclosure Housing rear access door First of all, unplug the TV from the wall outlet. You have a few thousand volts going through your ballast, be very careful! It’s also a good idea to let the TV cool down for a good 15-20 minutes as the bulb itself can get extremely hot. Ok, now, the enclosure housing access door is usually located on the back of your Samsung TV, as the following illustration shows:
Here is the close-up of the access door:
With a standard philips screw driver you’ll be able to remove the cover in a few seconds…
Step 3. Accessing the lamp enclosure Once you remove the rear access door, the lamp enclosure should be visible…
Here’s a picture of the enclosure inside the TV. 95% of the time, there is a screw that holds the lamp down in place…unscrew it!
Sometimes there are two screws, and sometimes the screws can only be loosed (not completely removed from the enclosure). Regardless, loosen the screw(s) and pull out the enclosure!
Sometimes there is a swinging handle and sometimes there is a stationary handle as shown below:
NOTE: Note the Blue toggle switch below the hand, most Samsungs have this switch to check if the lamp door is closed. TVs will NOT turn on if this door is left open!
Now that you’ve got the lamp enclosure out, you can double check the lamp code number. If there is a discrepency between the two lamp code stickers, use to the part number that is written on the enclosure itself (which almost always starts with BP96).

In this case, the lamp code on shown here is different than what we saw on the first picture up top… always default to whatever is stated on your lamp enclosure. At this point, if you are reusing your housing and changing the lamp, click over to: http://guides.fixyourdlp.com and pick your particular lamp code for detailed instructions on how to disassemble your enclosure. We recommend you replace the entire enclosure if you’ve already reused the housing before.
Step 4. Re-assembly of the enclosure It is critical you reassembly the TV by scewing down the enclosure and the rear access door completely prior to trying to turn on the TV. There is a blue sensor inside the TV which is not activated until the rear door is engaged. If the rear door is not places on properly or left open, your TV will NOT turn on! At this point, it’s now a good idea to check how many hours you had on your previous lamp and to reset the lamp hour counter, lamp meter, or lamp counter. Instructions are available here.


wlm2 says:
January 24, 2008 at 9:23 pm
I have a samsnung hln437wx/xaa tv and I believe it’s the ballest not the lamp from turning on my tv. It tries to turn on but, can’t. Do I replace the bulb to fix the ballest?
Ryan says:
August 10, 2008 at 3:40 pm
I have a Samsung hlr5678, the screen seemed to be getting darker and darker, so I purchased a new bulb from DM. After putting the new bulb in, I expected the TV to come on nice and bright. The TV is actually darker…I even tried to get the hours off the TV from the last bulb…but the pictures is just too dark to see the menu. On regular TV, a person can make out what the program is about, and see some of the picture…
Any ideas? Where do I go from here?
gdurand says:
November 29, 2008 at 3:07 am
I have samsung HLR6768 Iam having trouble removing the lamp housing.It come out about 1/2 inch then stops
Shawn says:
January 12, 2009 at 5:55 pm
I have a 50″ Samsung DLP, Model # HLS5065WX/XAA, its almost 2 years old, when i turn it on i get no picture or sound, the timer light on the front blinks once, then the lamp light blinks for awhile then it shuts down after a few minutes and the Standby/Temp light comes on, I can see the lamp is on through the back of the TV, any ideas what might be wrong, and can i fix it myself? The lamp seems to be working fine, i can see it coming on when i turn the power on the the TV, i also pulled the lamp out and it looks fine, so i don’t think its the lamp, any other ideas? No there are no strange sounds, i thought about the color wheel but i’m not hearing the clicking or buzzing sound, it starts up like it always has but there is no picture or sound
Rob says:
October 19, 2009 at 8:50 pm
Hi Shawn,
I have the exact same problem with my Samsung DLP tv. What did the problem end up being? Thank you kindly for your help in advance!
Best Regards,
Rob
Cole says:
December 11, 2009 at 6:17 pm
I had the same problem you have. Samsung sent a repair guy out to my a house a few times to fix the issue. took him a few attempts but he figured it out. it was a bad wire on the rh speaker that was causing everything to short out. hope this helps.
sherry says:
January 28, 2009 at 1:00 pm
Our 50 inch dlp is out. We just bought bulb from DM and installed it and no change. NO picture still. We hear a humming/buzzing from the tv when we turn it on. We need to know which part to try next? Color wheel? Ballast? We need help. Of course it goes out right before the super bowl and my husband is a huge Steelers fan………just our luck. It’s 4 years old by the way.
FixYourDLP.com says:
January 28, 2009 at 2:08 pm
Check your color wheel next. Usually when it’s out it makes the humming/buzzing noise.
FixYourDLP.com says:
January 28, 2009 at 2:18 pm
It could be your ballast. The ballast is what provides the electricity to your lamp to power it up. If no electricity is being provided, your lamp will not light up.
FixYourDLP.com says:
January 28, 2009 at 2:20 pm
No you do not replace the bulb to fix the ballast you would need to replace the ballast if that’s what the problem is..
FixYourDLP.com says:
January 28, 2009 at 2:21 pm
Check your color wheel next. Usually when you hear a humming/buzzing sound it has to do with the color wheel.
Frank says:
February 18, 2009 at 3:18 pm
Thanks for the info, definitely helped
John J says:
March 8, 2009 at 6:04 pm
I just replaced the color wheel in my Samsung DLP 46″, It would not come on. The lamp does not light. Checked it and it seemed to have a bad connector at the lamp power board. Three wire to the lamp from PC board. Tried to solder wire direct to board, touchy but appeared to be good connection. No lamp light still.
Can it be the lamp or do I just need to buy a new board and connector now, and see if that works first?
FixYourDLP.com says:
March 9, 2009 at 10:47 am
It could be your ballast. Your ballast is what actually ignites the lamp.
Chris says:
March 21, 2009 at 3:11 pm
I have a samsung DLP with LED (HL-T5687sa) I have lost the red color, what do I need to replace to fix this problem?
Mario Reyes says:
April 27, 2009 at 8:58 am
I have a HL-R6768W that we bought approx 4 years ago…. I have had the buzzing sound coming from the set usually if I turned the power on and off very quickly… I would un-plug it leave it for 5 minutes and it would go away, I also have a 4″ shadow on the left side of the TV that has been there a couple of years now, I tried to get help from Samsung, but they’re customer service is a joke and since the warranty expired all they wanted to do is send repair people out with $150 service calls… so we have just got used to the shadow. Is this the lamp? My nephew hooked up his game console to it over the weekend and the TV started toshut down and the buzzing noise would start of and on… I let the tv cool off over-night and turned it on the next morning where it ran for 20 minutes or so then shut down, but no buzzing sound this time, but the set would not turn on. Should I replace the lamp, the color wheel, or both?
Thanks,
Mario
FixYourDLP.com says:
May 4, 2009 at 11:32 am
Mario Reyes,
It sounds like it could be your color wheel or your ballast. Is the buzzing noise really loud? Do you hear a clicking noise when you turn on your TV? Get back to me with more information please.
Billy Retzlaff says:
May 6, 2009 at 6:58 am
same question as above
Billy Retzlaff says:
May 6, 2009 at 6:59 am
can i change the color wheel myself?
meo nguyen says:
June 9, 2009 at 9:50 am
I have a Samsung HL-P5085W 60 Inch. The TV kinda blew up and made an small explosie noise then after that all i hear is the sound. no picture. do i need to replace a lamp? thanx
FixYourDLP.com says:
June 9, 2009 at 10:49 am
Meo Nguyen,
I would say i’m almost 100% sure it’s your lamp, but you can pull it out of your TV to double check. Just give it a look over and get the part number off it before you go and orer a new one.
tay says:
July 13, 2009 at 2:15 pm
I have a 56 in samsung dlp the three lights on the front are flashing yellow and red. I brought the television about 2 years ago. What could be wrong with it?
Tim says:
October 26, 2009 at 7:01 pm
I have a Samsung HLT 50758x/xaa which blew it’s second lamp in less than 2 years #1 lasted about 18 months the 2nd about 6 months I’m ready for #3 because I miss my TV but can I replace the color wheel and or balast on my own and which is less expensive? #2 just faded to black with the appropriate buttons blinking to indicate the lamp was shot. Any suggestions?
David says:
December 31, 2009 at 11:47 am
I am having a load humming noies problem with my 43 Samsung DLP TV. Picture and color are still great. Just started hearing the load humming noise over the last couple of weeks. I have had the TV for over 5 years. Is this the color wheel or balast? If it either what do I do next?