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The importance of authentic
It’s important that you install an OEM lamp and avoid a generic, compatible lamp.
We recommend purchasing from an Authorized Philips dealer such as Discount-Merchant.com to insure that you are receiving a genuine Philips brand replacement lamp. Beware of knock-off and counterfeit Philips lamps floating around in the market.
Knock-off, compatible generic lamps may seem like a bargain in the beginning. They actually cost more in the long run since they can damage the color wheel and ballast mechanisms in your RPTV. They also give off poor light, are prone to messy explosions and actually have a shorter life.
There are also health concerns associated with these lamps. Generic lamps are made with toxic substances that can compromise your family’s health. Read more about the dangers of Krypton-85.
When you purchase an OEM replacement lamps you’re guaranteed the best lamp for your RPTV.
It’s important that you install an OEM lamp and avoid a generic, compatible lamp.
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I purchased a Samsung DLP HLR5678WX in April of ’06. About a year later the TV failed to operate and the indicator lights on the front of the tv indicated that the lamp was bad. Luckily I had purchased the extended warranty and only had to wait 5 weeks for my new lamp to arrive, yes I said 5 weeks. I replaced the lamp and the the TV worked great for 2 weeks and then blinking lights on the front of the TV indicating, yet again, a bad lamp. Only waited 3 weeks this time for a new lamp, I complained a little about the first wait. Replaced the lamp for the third time and it worked great for a couple of more weeks and then indicator lights again! I then went in and took a look around and removed the bulb and re-inserted it and the TV worked! It continued to work for a couple of days, indicator lights again. Removed the lamp re-inserted the lamp tightened the screw, the set works. This worked for a couple of months but the last time I tried this it didn’t work. I then called Samsung and arranged for a certified tech to come and check out my set, after all you shouldn’t have to get out a screwdriver everytime you want to watch tv right? The tech showed up and said that he thought it was the ballast so he replaced the ballast and the tv worked great for 3 days but then the same problem.
I am now begining to think that I have 2 spare bulbs and an extra ballast (yes I saved them) and that the problem lies somewhere else. Possibly the switch for the lamp cover? All connectors on the back seem to be in place. Is there a way to test the switch to see if that’s the problem? Any other ideas? Thanks in advance.
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billy says:
January 29, 2009 at 7:16 pm
I have 5-6 DLP, have replaced the bulb and the color wheel…much fun. Now, I have vertical lines about 1″ in width spaced about every 6 inches across the screen. Any ideas?
FixYourDLP.com says:
January 30, 2009 at 11:43 am
Most likely it is your DMD chip. The chip has millions of micro mirrors on it that reflect the light from the color wheel to the screen. If it’s not working properly, the mirrors most likely are not tipping back and forth which can cause the vertical lines.
Steven A. says:
February 4, 2009 at 10:08 pm
I started having the problem as well it last for about the first 10 minutes then goes away. I think it is the powersupply card. There are approximately 3 transistor on a heatsink on this card and I narrowed the sound to that area of the television. I feel one the transistors are about the fail. But I can live with it for now. Will troubleshoot it more as my problem gets worst.
Steven A. says:
February 4, 2009 at 10:55 pm
If you are receiving a shreeking noise during powering up the DLP and it last for several minutes its probably this device:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/product-p/ballastbp47-00037a_bp47-00033a.htm
The noise I was hearing was on this board. It would make since because it provides the power to run the DLP. My DLP tube was about 4 years old and its still working but I am receiving the noise during powering up. Even though I was formerly a TV Technician over 10 years ago back in the CRT Days and technology has changed rapidly since those days so I am no expert anymore. I can’t say how long these DLP bulbs last but don’t expect 10 years and more. They were not designed for longevity but for image quality.
Morris says:
February 7, 2009 at 8:01 pm
I see several are experiencing a common problem regarding a screaching noise. This is the color wheel dying. You can order one for a little over a hundred dollars and install it yourself. There are instructions on the internet. I’ve done it; it took about a hour. However, I suggest you hire a very small, technically astute octypus for the task.
Morris says:
February 7, 2009 at 8:10 pm
Most any “shreeking” noise will likely come from a dying color wheel. Intermitent for days and weeks, but continues to degrade. More frequent at startup at first, but will begin to continue beyond startup. Can be ordered; you can replace it. It’s just tedious. Instructions are available on the internet.
Morris says:
February 7, 2009 at 8:12 pm
Color wheel.
Ralf says:
February 8, 2009 at 10:46 am
I have a Samsung dlp hl-p5663w, no picture but there is audio. Tv turns on for a few seconds then turns off and back on again all within a few minutes then stays off…with lamp light blinking green each time. I have already replaced the lamp and the ballast. Any suggestions? Thanks
Steven A. says:
February 8, 2009 at 10:24 pm
Make sure to obtain the Ballast for your particular model. No one size fits all.
Ralf says:
February 9, 2009 at 8:14 am
I got the ballast from Samsung…went to samsungparts.com
Dennis S. says:
February 9, 2009 at 1:22 pm
Samsung HL-R5067W with original bulb. Picture has wide green vertical bars from top to bottom with some green streaks across the top. Bulb has been removed and reinstalled. Menu screen looks great when you first power it up. Dish Network and Xbox signals have bars. Audio is good. Picture is unwatchable. Unit has been unplugged for 8 hours and the picture looks the same. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks, Dennis
Gene says:
February 15, 2009 at 5:41 pm
My Samsung S4676S shut down afer making some crackeling noise that sounded like static. Then I got the 3 led lights flashing. replaced the lamp and fired it up. After about 30 minutes the crackeling noise was back. suspecting an over heatiing problem I put a fan behind the set near the box that has no fan. It worked for about two weeks by running the external cooling fan. Now it is doing it again. I shut it down and after 15 minutes I restart it for another 20 minutes before it over heasts again. It no longer makes the tone soound when it shuts down, It does make the tones on the start up….No blinking lights as long as I shut it down before it shuts itself down. What is going on here??? Samsung is either unable or unwilling to help and act as if no-one ever has trouble with their TV’S Huh ! No more samsung junk for me
sal says:
February 17, 2009 at 12:20 am
same problem here Samsung DLP 42″ after 1 1/2 year 2 white dots appear (like stars) then in a few weeks i have 7 white dots, called samsung and they said warranty is up they cant come and help me. Does anyone have figured out how to take the white dots off from the screen? thanks
Howard Leadley says:
February 22, 2009 at 12:35 am
I have been working on some Samsung DLP’s and I am not a factory trained tech. but I have found several problems with these units. Correctly insert the DLP bulb door, also rock the reset switch back and forth several times to make sure it moves correctly, then if all else fails if you can, I could had extra Balasts for testing exchange and yes I know You most likely will not have one but what can I say,
. Next thing is power board thats wired to balast, have a nice day.
Later Howard
Jacob says:
February 22, 2009 at 9:16 pm
Samsung DLP 52″ is doing the same thing that joe’s and ray’s was doing. Picture freezes and then goes black. Does not allow you to turn tv off or switch to another source while it is turned black or frozen. I unplug it for a while and then it works fine for a while. ( A day or two at the most). Have a pc hooked up to it and it works fine, even while it is freezing up on component or hdmi (have satellite on comp. 2 and ps3 on hdmi comp.) I find that very odd. Please someone help me figure out what’s going on.
GARY says:
February 25, 2009 at 7:08 pm
Hi, I have a Samsung DLP 50″ screen is green. Repair shop said it will cost around $550 needs a new board. Had less than 40 hrs on it, paid around $3,000 for it. Should I fix it or dump it!
Charles says:
March 3, 2009 at 3:30 pm
The in home tech said the screeching problem is a bad color wheel.
Kenny says:
March 5, 2009 at 3:54 pm
It is the color wheel i just replaced mine and it works great it’s an easy fix…just take a look at this web site…http://www.jangro.com/a/2006/07/24/samsung-dlp-replace-color-wheel/
Kenny says:
March 5, 2009 at 3:55 pm
Again another color wheel problem..take a look at this website it should make the fix quite simple i just did it to mine usin this site…http://www.jangro.com/a/2006/07/24/samsung-dlp-replace-color-wheel/
Kenny says:
March 5, 2009 at 3:59 pm
It is definitely the lamp
Sean says:
March 11, 2009 at 3:17 pm
I have a 50″ HL-R5067W DLP that I paid $1600 2.5 years ago and it started to show green squares on the screen in chess board pattern. The only input that shows up WITHOUT the green squares is HDMI, every other analog inputs including OTA HD channels all show either green squares or green vertical lines. If anyone knows where the culprit could be, please let me know.
FixYourDLP.com says:
March 11, 2009 at 4:03 pm
It could be your DMD chip. A DMD chip houses millions of micro mirrors which tilt back and forth very rapidly and causes them to reflect the color onto your TV screen. If it’s broken that could be the cause of your chess board pattern color issues.
Sean says:
March 11, 2009 at 3:22 pm
I have a 50″ HL-R5067W DLP that behaves exactly as yours. The only input that does not show either green squares or green vertical lines is the HDMI. Did you have yours fixed? Could it be the analog board?
sam says:
March 12, 2009 at 8:29 am
I have a samsung dlp hlt5075s,I am having a problem with white dots on the left hand side of the screen.I have checked the lamp and removed dust that has built up on and around the lamp but it did not fix the problem.
FixYourDLP.com says:
March 12, 2009 at 9:56 am
Chances are that the dots could be caused by a few problems… Either your cable or satellite box or component cables are faulty, or you have a bad DMD chip. The DMD chip tilts tiny mirrors on and off rapidly. If the mechanism to to turn the mirrors is malfunctioning, it can be left in the on position, permanently reflecting light toward the screen. The amount of time it switches back and forth control the intensity of the white light, so if it’s on back and fourth 50% of the time in 1 second, you get a grayish color. If it’s on 100% you get a white pixel. If its on 0% of the time, then you get a dark pixel. It doesn’t sound like a lamp WOULD fix your problem since the lamp’s main purpose is to provide light.
sam says:
March 12, 2009 at 12:34 pm
thank you for your help
FixYourDLP.com says:
March 12, 2009 at 1:17 pm
No problem Sam.
Joe says:
March 12, 2009 at 1:33 pm
Screeching sound would more than likely be the color wheel. Does the screeching sound weaken right after turning off? Does it start back up a few seconds after you power the tv?
Joe says:
March 12, 2009 at 1:36 pm
Buddy,
Do you have the TV plugged in to a surge protector? If not, it’s probably a little to late but if you get even one more power outage without surge protection you will have a TV saying bye-bye pronto!
Surge protectors are worth the investment.
Joe says:
March 12, 2009 at 1:38 pm
In any case it sounds to me like your power supply is on it’s last days. Sooner than later it will give up and you will need to replace it along with any other parts that can get damaged when the power supply goes out! Don’t wait! Get it checked now before you have to pony up more bengis!
Joe says:
March 12, 2009 at 1:41 pm
80,000 hours!?!?!?! You must mean 8,000 hours and even that is a lot for a good life on a DLP lamp.