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Ballasts seem to be "lamp specific" with one ballast part number ending in 41 and one ending in 42. The blue/brown wire that goes from the power supply to the ballast will have 2 pins on the 41 version and 3 pins on the 42 IF I remember correctly. Yours being an R version most likely has the ballast...

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Are you sure the ribbon from the color wheel is inserted correctly into the dmd board? Silver side faces the BACK of the tv. I have made this mistake before and it's an easy mistake to make. Double check ever plug and every connection, Otherwise, bad dmd board is my guess. Save your DMD chip. swap o...

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I'm sorry to hear of your continued issues with your set. With the new components you've installed, I would now begin to suspect that perhaps the OTHER fan may be under performing. I would also carefully inspect all the capacitors on the power supply. One good thunderstorm and little power surge can...

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Finally, success. It turns out that despite loosening the three "don't fiddle with" screws, my alignment didn't change. Because of age, the board/dmd chip alignment was sort of stuck into position. With the three screws loose, I pried the board a little and suddenly it was loose and could be adjuste...

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Well I've found an excellent post on Justanswer and will try the advice offered to someone with exactly the same problem. Will update this soon.

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I am baffled. The three "don't fiddle with" screws don't seem to have any effect upon the picture position. I've loosened and tightened them all and can't see that they are making any difference whatsoever to anything. I'm sure this isn't right, but I refuse to surrender and call in a Samsung tech. ...

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While doing refurbish work on a Samsung DLP the soldered end of the color wheel ribbon wire got pinched and broke off. Oh ^%$. I tried splicing it, but it turns out there is a reason there are four separate ribbon wires in there. You can't just solder on another 'end.' What to do? Fortunately, I had...

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I recently saved a HL72A650 from the scrap yard, and after replacing the ballast, and installing two new capacitors on the power supply, it's working great. Except for one thing. The picture is 4 inches too high. I went into the user menu first and tried to adjust position, but it only moves a littl...

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It was a bad color wheel. Or to be more accurate, a color wheel in the throes of death. The fact that it was still working was what threw me off. But it didn't work for long, and now that it's dead, I can order a new one and get this one up and running again.

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Even the slightest bulge should make you suspect a bad cap, and replacing suspect caps is not only one of the least expensive fixes for these sets, but really not that difficult if you have a decent quality soldering iron. I have the cheapest one you could buy and I've successfully swapped out about...

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I recently rescued a HL-S6167wx/xaa from destruction. After replacing the ballast, swapping out two capacitors on the power supply and installing a new quality lamp, the set is running fine. The picture looks great. But when I change channels, and sometimes while just watching a single channel, I ca...

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Well chalk this one up to working in a room with only overhead lights. I had neglected to see four screws at the very top of the "bezel" that undo from the rear. Finding and removing these released the front screen and revealed the speakers and the off/on button. these are NOT accessible from the re...

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You've replaced all the expensive bits, which is why I suspect it's the ballast. Here's the order of "most likely to fail" that I've found after fixing about 15 or 20 Samsung DLP's as a "hobby" of sorts. First to fail, the lamp. Next, the ballast. Third, the capacitors on the power supply board. Fou...

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Your informative reply has been a big help and I have gone into the "swap 'em out" mode doing these repairs. Given the low cost relative to other components of these tv's I am now now longer worrying about throwing old ones out.

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First, hang in there. We can probably get this back to normal operation with a little more effort. Second, don't be afraid of a little de soldering and capacitor replacement. Watch a couple of YouTube videos and you'll be an expert in no time. It's only slightly more advanced than turning a screw. O...

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Swap out that ballast. For $20 or so you can eliminate that item which is often prone to failure. Next, check all your capacitors (round Tootsie Roll looking things big and small) and see if any of them have tops that are not perfectly flat--especially on the power supply board. If they bulge at the...

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Has anyone pointed out to you yet that this model uses the LED illumination system and so HAS NO LAMP AND NO COLOR WHEEL? Now it is very possible that one of the LED Phatlights has gone bad, and my guess is it's the RED LED. If all your LED's pass the test here, then suspect your ballast. Here's a q...

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Thanks. I have previously removed everything via the back (virtually all the 'guts') and didn't come close to seeing the speakers or the power on button. So I was left thinking it was the front that needed to come off. It may be that the bottom is involved as well. Or maybe there's a panel at the ve...

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I was recently given a HL72A650 because the owner had given up trying to fix it. Turned out it had two bad capacitors on the power supply board. You may want to check all the components and all their resident capacitors to see if any have gone bad (bulging at the top). It may not seem logical, but a...

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Question 1--have you tried changing the "source" on the TV? Sounds like the snow on the screen may be coming from having no signal coming into the set on a selected source. Try feeding it a good signal through any of the input connections, and hit source button to select it. Question 2--have you che...

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Here's an update on my adventures with the HL72A650. I lucked out and found a guy with a broken screen version of this set, and convinced him to sell me the entire light engine which had exactly 0 hours on it. I swapped this unit we'll call Big Ten into my "white dot issues, and possible who knows w...

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Recently I acquired a 61 inch Samsung from a recycling yard and I'm trying to get it working again. Its got a bad DVI board I think, judging from the rust and crud on the components, but it ALSO has a power on button on the front that seems to be broken. I thought I would just remove the "bezel" tha...

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Recently I acquired a "broken" HL-T6156. It needed a color wheel. And a new Philips bulb. And the ballast was bad. Now it is "working" sometimes and not others. Here's what's happening. On turning it on for the first time, the lamp lights (thanks to that new ballast and new bulb) but no image is on ...

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You've done an impressive amount of homework and this forum is the right place to get expert advice. I only wish I was as knowledgeable as many of the other members. But here's what I know (or think I know). Yes, a service manual should be available through SamsungParts.com. My advice--sell your new...

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Having successfully refurbished a dozen or so Samsung DLP's in the 50, 56, and 61 editions, and then passing them along at cost to company employees in Atlanta and Cincinnati, I thought I would tackle a 72 incher. And for the first time, I'm going to do a chip replacement. I'm always up for a new ch...

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Solid advice. And I enjoyed reading your post. It amazes me that more isn't being said or written about these DLP sets as a great value in HDTV. I stopped by to look at the new 4K sets recently, and maybe it was the gaudy content, but I actually found the picture to be kinda unrealistic. In print yo...

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Does anyone have an idea of what part of the lamp ballast board is failing? Is it a big brown capacitor? Or some kind of chip or such. It would make so much sense to FIX these ballasts rather than have to buy a new or used one to replace my old one. Just wondering....

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I promised an update and here it is. The new red LED arrived and I tested it using the 9 volt battery method mentioned above. It was working. I bought a little "heat sink grease" and spread that on both the LED and the copper heat sink, squeezing them together tightly and wiping off all the excess. ...

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Many of us LOVE the quality of the picture when these TV's are working. And when things go wrong, many times the repair can be done by anyone who is the least bit handy with a screwdriver. The parts are available if you search eBay, or Amazon, or ShopJimmy.com, or Discount-Merchant. Just be sure to ...

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First, I would suspect your power cord. Sounds simple, but often it's the simplest things that can go wrong. Replace it with one you know is good, or test it for connectivity. After that, find your BLUE safety switch. It's a little toggle at the very rear of the set (inside) that goes up or down and...

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Sure sounds like an issue with the color wheel. It has to achieve a required RPM before the set will turn on. This L6 chassis is easy to remove (3 plugs, 1 DVI cable, couple of screws on the chassis base) and pulling the color wheel out involves only a couple of screws and a good wiggle/pull upward....

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Before you start throwing money at it with new parts and replacement boards, I would make sure you have cleaned it to spotless condition inside, and pull out the color wheel and inspect it for a missing segment or other damage. While damaged color wheels will almost always make terrible noises, I ha...

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A couple of thoughts that might help you. How well have you cleaned everything inside the tv? Your time spent doing an absolutely thorough job dusting, vacuuming and then blowing out everything will be well spent. Also, replace the batteries in your remote. Next, have you looked at your color wheel?...

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Here's what I've done so far to fix a similar problem with my HLT6187s that I recently bought for a whopping $80. It died from dust. Seeing the bulging caps/capacitors on the sub power supply board located at the far right of the TV, I de soldered the old bulging caps out and replaced with new. Neve...

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This most definitely sounds like a color wheel issue. There are good YouTube videos showing how to remove the light engine from your tv. Any of them will give you an idea of what you're in for, but really, it's a lot easier than you might expect. Take pictures as you go for reference, and label wire...

FixYourDLP.com Forums

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