Postby ovadoggvo » Tue Jan 28, 2014 7:16 pm
camarokidz28,
What I recommend if you have the BigBoy Samsung HL72A650C1FXZA DLP TV torn apart is that you first check the voltage coming out of the power supply and going into the Ballast board... The voltage should be 320V - 380V. This would mean you have a good working power supply. The power supplies function is just that and nothing more. If your old Samsung HL72A650C1FXZA supply was powering the bulb, the problem would definitely not be the power supply.
Regarding the ballast board. If your lamp is firing, and the ballast ignites the BP96-01600A replacement lamp - then your ballast is not weak nor is it the source of the problem. If you really want to dig more into it before ordering another bulb; the possible issue would most likely be originating from your DMD Board sending the signal to the ballast and power supply to turn on the TV. The DMD Board is the board that holds the infamous Texas Instrument DLP Chip which is the heart of the digital display. This board also does the monitoring of a few different sensors.
The Samsung HL72A650C1FXZA DMD Board detects a few things:
1 - Before power is injected - it checks the sensor for the lamp cover door. If lamp cover is on, it attempts to power on the TV by sending a pulse to the ballast and color wheel.
2a - Then When power is injected into the Big Boy Samsung TV set, it ignites the ballast. It gets a response back from the ballast letting it know that the Lamp has been powered on. If the ballast has powered on the lamp (completed the AC circuit by bridging the gap in the lamp burner) then it moves forward to boot. At this point, if the lamp can not ignite (or shuts off) the TV will shut itself off.
2b - At the same time the color wheel is powered on and there is a Mark Sensor on the wheel itself (black mark on the wheel) as well as a sensor board on the color wheel housing that senses the RPM revolutions of the Samsung TV's color wheel. If the color wheel reaches optimal RPM, the boot sequence moves forward. If the Samsung HL72A650C1FXZA DLP's color wheel can not reach optimal RPM - the tv shuts itself off.
3 - Once the TV is powered on, the Samsung TV's DMD board also monitors the temperature sensors located near the BP96-01600A lamp of the television set. If the temperature rises too fast or the HL72A650C1FXZA sensors show a rapid increase in temperature, then the TV will shut itself off.
If you believe that the lamp is not at fault, then I would start with checking the color wheel mark sensor (cleaning the sensor) and making sure the black mark is on the wheel... on some sets, the color wheel black mark is a sticker and at times may fall off. If the wheel is good, and you continue to have issues the DMD board itself or the Digital Board may be failing (the digital board controls the digital up-conversion as well as the remote control functions that may be triggering the power cycle). In this case, I would start with the digital board of the Samsung HL72A650C1FXZA DLP Television. If the digital board may be at fault, please look at this post below to resolve a cold-solder issue which is a little trick I learned in boy scouts that may work in 20% of the cases:
http://www.fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1736372
As you can see above, the maze gets a little bit complicated and for you to dig into power supplies, ballasts, etc... the easy thing is to change the lamp first with one that is adequate. The one you purchased from Amazon is definitely a low-end replacement lamp for your Samsung BP96-01600A and may be causing intermittent issues - making troubleshooting very difficult.
Also, I would try to return the HL72A650C1FXZA power supply and ballast to where ever you purchased them from because they are clearly not the source of your Samsung DLP Television sets problem.
I have also attached a flowchart from the Samsung DLP service manual (a different model) that is much more vague than my description above. Let me know what you decide and how it goes!
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Attachments
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- SamsungFlowChartTroubleshooting.pdf
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