While doing refurbish work on a Samsung DLP the soldered end of the color wheel ribbon wire got pinched and broke off. Oh ^%$. I tried splicing it, but it turns out there is a reason there are four separate ribbon wires in there. You can't just solder on another 'end.' What to do? Fortunately, I had a spare DMD board to experiment on. My first issue was the fact that the ribbon is not thick enough to stay in the connector slot just by itself. So here was my successful fix. I super glued a 1/4 inch length of the same ribbon wire onto the back of the end of the ribbon wire, thus doubling it in thickness. This fits into the connector securely. Then I carefully (stress carefully) scraped off the plastic casing above the four copper ribbon wires where they would contact the connector contacts. I scraped about 3/16ths of an inch of it with a razor/utility blade IN THE SAME DIRECTION AS THE RIBBONS until I had exposed the copper wire beneath the plastic coating. Once it was "shiney as a penny" I knew the copper was exposed. I then inserted this new "end" into the connector on the DMD board. I installed everything and viola, it didn't work. Oh ^&^%% again. I took the light engine out and delicately scraped the ribbon wire end again making sure the plastic was all gone without going through the copper. I inserted it as deep into the connector as I could and tried again. This time it worked. I am always thankful for small miracles. There may be easier or better fixes for this issue, and if you have one, I'd love to hear it. Help the environment. Save a Samsung.