HLP5085W - Won't power up & makes a whining sound.

[Inthered]

I need some help and advice. On power up my HLP5085W makes a whining sound and fails to turn the lamp on. This is followed by a few reattempts before lamp indicator on the front panel finally lights up. I should add that the whining sound started on power up's about three weeks ago but each time I was able to get the DLP to turn on eventually after a few tries. The picture quality was very good once it finally warmed up.

Unfortunately all good things come to an end and it finally stopped working all together.

I've been monitoring the posts on this forum and I've tried replacing the color wheel first followed by the ballast. The lamp is about 6 months old and is a direct Phillips replacement. The color wheel does not try to spin and the whine appears to be coming from somewhere behind the ballast. I've verified that the color wheel is not binding and does spin free. All parts are Samsung parts.

It basically acts and sounds exactly like the one identified in the YouTube link in the Posting named "Hlp-4663w won't turn on, makes a high pitched wine"

Any thoughts?

[grayfox]

can you look to see if there is a fan located back there?

[mhenry]

I have the same model tv with the exact same symptoms. I'm new so bare with me here. What i've done so far is follows:
1. replaced the lamp
2. replaced the ballast
3. replaced the color wheel
4. replaced the power supply that connects to the ballast board.
5. cleaned out any dust inside the set.
6. checked for proper operation of the blue lid switch, thermistor, and fan. only one fan in this model. I've looked all over and never did find another one.

There is something making that whining noise and I have yet to figure out where its coming from. There are a few things that I've observed that do not make sense to me.

on power up:
1. the color wheel makes an attempt to spin, but only a couple times and very slowly.
2. the lamp never lights up.
3. I've checked the voltage input to the ballast board and never saw anything above 160v. Now the schmatics keep saying it should be @320v. And i'm assuming they mean DC volts. in either case, that is why i replaced the power supply, but the value remained the same.
4. the power up test will cycle 3 times and give the bad lamp indication.
5. the whining is heard throughout the power up cycle.

6. I can not get to the service menu. I put in the code "menu-1-8-2 power, when i do that i will get a smiley face which last a few seconds, but no picture and then it goes back through the power up sequence with the end result being showing the lamp failure icon.


I've held on to this tv with the hopes of getting it up and running again, but not sure if that is possible. I've heard mentioned a lot on here that the DMD board may be bad, but will it cause these symptoms? I've also read about replacing the whole light engine, but does that include the DMD board? any help will be greatly appreciated.

thanks

[Inthered]

Thanks mhenry. It's nice to know I'm not the only one with this issue and this model.

Like you, I have also replaced the lamp and ballast as well as cleaned out the inside as best as I could. I couldn't find a second fan either and I've had the unit completely apart. I've checked the lid switch and the thermister as well.

I had bought a new color wheel but it had arrived damaged from J&J. When I went to get a replacement they said the next one could not be returned even if it arrived damaged so I decided to get my money back and shop elsewhere.

I bought the color wheel (not the whole assembly) from Sears Parts Direct as that's all they had but when I went to install it, I noticed that the small wire harness that runs from the I/R sensor board to the DMD was frayed and very brittle. This is where I gave up - (about three months ago).

I just bought the latest 46" D7000L Samsung LED 3D and 3D package from Best Buy and it's due to be delivered on Friday. Not wanting to part with my my DLP that easily, I though I'd give it another try before they take it away so I ordered another color wheel assembly from J&J and it's due tomorrow. I've also considered calling for service but I don't want to waste alot of $. I'll let you know if I figure it out.

[grayfox]

Hello mhenry,
I think you might there must have been some damage to the colorwheel prior to installation, OR the power supply is giving the incorrect voltage to the colorwheel... :?:
I am leaning more towards the first, because of the screeching sound :x and because ifthe colorwheel does not turn on it cuts power to the other components i.e. the lamp... :cry:
The large fan that cools the lamp and boards is highly unlikely to emit a screeching sound unless it has physical damage, the only part in a DLP that can produce that sound is a defective/damaged colorwheel. 8-) or its energy source. :roll: ...

This sounds very confusing i know sorry!!! :shock:

[Inthered]

OK. The color wheel arrived sooner than I thought and I installed it. The DLP came to life for the first time in many months. The problem is that I'm back to the original problem. On power-up there is a whining sound coming from behind the color wheel. The unit attempts to power up a few times then the lamp finally comes on.

I was able to get the unit to display a picture and was able to watch a little ESPN but within a half hour of operating, white lines appeared and are running from top to bottom on the screen across the entire screen. When I turn the TV off, the picture goes away and the white bars remain on the black screen for a few seconds until they also finally disappear.

I'm thinking it's the DMD board at this point.

Any thoughts?

[grayfox]

:arrow: The only screeching winding sound I have come to hear in my years as a tech comes from a Colorwheel, this is the third most popular consumable part inside your TV after the ballast and of course the lamp. there are no other components that can cause this noise, also it is a very delicate part to replace since most of these are air bearings, the magnetic threads are easy to bend or twist out of shape hence damaging the wheels calibration..

[mhenry]

I guess anything is possible, so the colorwheel may still be the problem. I did physically inspect it and I can spin it by hand and it spins freely. The low DC voltage to the ballast may also be caused by what you said, the fact that the colorwheel never past the "spin up" test. My concern is with the DMD board. Is it sending the proper signal to the colorwheel to tell it to spin and is it receiving the proper signal back to let it know if it attempted to spin up. I'm thinking about replacing the whole light engine assembly. From what I've seen, the price is reasonable "$329" and i'm being told that it will come with the DMD board, lamp assembly (minus the bulb), ballast and colorwheel. Doesn't sound right, seeing as you can't find a DMD board for less than $400, if at all.

[grayfox]

If you are ordering from DM it is correct they refurbish complete components like that I have installed them in the past no problem! most of the times i buy it for the sole DMD and keep the ballast and colorwheel for future applications!
;)

[Inthered]

Any recommendations on where to purchase the parts? I checked J&J International and they show the DMD at over $1K????

I couldn't find it on DM's site. Everywhere else it's in the $700-$900 range!!!!

I am leaning towards the board as well at this point and thinking like you mhenry. The screeching sound could be the color wheel not getting the right signal/power from the board. Again, my issue is similar, but I am able to get the set to turn on eventually.

BTW, I haven't seen the white vertical lines down the screen since yesterday. (finger's crossed)

[grayfox]

hmmm hard part to find :( can you get me a part number of the board itself??? or maybe even call the manufacturer and ask them what part number you should order, (they probably wont have it) and I can help you find one online ;) the cheapest around :P