colors on a dlp


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firechief
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colors on a dlp

Postby firechief » Sat Mar 14, 2009 12:55 pm

I have a 4 year old, 52hm95 toshiba dlp tv. The color is off on it. The facesand forheads of people is washed out and during a night scene evrything has a green tint to it. strange to watch. i set the contrast from 50 to 16 and it helped a little but the problem still is there. I dont want to buy a new one, but cant take this much longer. I though i could fix it myself if i knew what the problem was. They installed a new bulb under warrarty about 8 months ago. just becaus they were doing a software upgrade and the tech said while he was here he would go ahead and do it. I had a local repair shop come by and look at it and they said it was the light engine and it would cost about $800.00 to fix. I dont thimk the tv is worth that....
Can you help?
Thanks
Tom

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Eddie
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Re: colors on a dlp

Postby Eddie » Sun Mar 15, 2009 6:44 pm

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Re: colors on a dlp

Postby Dan308 » Wed Feb 10, 2010 9:12 pm

I have what sounds like the same issue with a 62HMX95.

I got the TV about 6 months ago from a friend for free when Best Buy bought them out of the warranty. They were told the color engine needed to be replaced. When I got it home it worked fine. Only 2 times in the last 6 months has the color gone green/blue on me and only after moving it. Both times the color has come back on its own after pulling out the whole entertainment center to check connections. Not sure what made it comeback though. With a Wii, Xbox 360, PS3, HD Tivo, and surround, that gets pretty ugly.

What's odd about the color engine thing to me is that if I switch to the TV Guide channel or use one of the standard video inputs with the Yellow, red, and white, the colors are fine. I would think if the color wheel was out of sync then the color would be affected in any mode. Also when using the YPbPr cables, if one of the green or blue cables is disconnected the picture goes out completely, however if the red cable is unplugged, nothing happens. Its like the red cable is not reconized either way.

It seems likely to me that there is some kind of fault on the A/V input board. For my model this is part # 23590231A and only costs about $80.


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