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How to replace the Sanyo PLC-SU70/PLC-XU73 projector lamp

Shelagh McNally — Sun, 15 Jan 2012 21:49:33 +0000

Sanyo PLC-SU73 projector

When it’s time to change your lamp on your Sanyo PLC-SU70/PLC-XU73 projector, the lamp indicator will turn yellow and start blinking. Be sure to choose a POA-LMP90 or POA-LMP106 lamp for your PLC-SU70/PLC-XU73 projector.

Be sure to purcahse only genuine POALMP106 or POALMP90 to protect your investment. The cheaper versions are often counterfeit models that can damage the sensitive mechanisms in your Sanyo PLC-SU70/PLC-XU73 projector.

Sanyo PLC-XU70 projector

STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS FOR LAMP REPLACEMENT

Before installation: Turn off the projector and unplug the AC cord. Allow the Sanyo PLC-SU70/PLC-XU73 projector to cool for one hour – it should be cool to the touch. Inside of the projector can be very hot since these machines operator under high temperatures.

Replacing the POA-LMP90/POA-LMP106 lamp

Caution: Don’t touch the screen or the actual bulb with your finger since the oil from your skin can cause a black spot on the bulb.

1. Underneath the Sanyo PLC-SU70/PLC-XU73 projector you’ll find the Lamp Hazard cover. Gently turn it upside down protecting the top of the project.Using a Philips screwdriver loosen the screw holding the cover in place. Put the cover to one side.

2. Remove the two screws on either side of each the POA-LMP90 or POA-LMP106 lamp. Grab the handle on the lamp cage and gently the lamp. Place to one side.

3. Take the new POA-LMP106 lamp cage or POA-LMP90 lamp cage by the handle and gently maneuvere it into place.

4. Avoid touching the glass or the bulb. The lamp should slide in easily – don’t force it. Once the lamp is in, tighten the screws on the Lamp Assembly.

5. Replace the Lamp Hazard Cover and tighten screws.

6. Re-connect the power cord and turn on the Sanyo PLC-SU70/PLC-XU737 projector.

Resetting the Lamp Replacement counter on the Sanyo PLC-SU70/PLC-XU73 Projector

Reset the Lamp Replacement Counter only when the POA-LMP90 or POA-LMP106 has been replaced.

Do not operate the projectors while any of the lamps are removed as this may result in malfunctions, fire hazard and other accidents.

Turn the Sanyo Sanyo PLC-SU70/PLC-XU73 projector on.
Press the Menu option to display the On-Screen Menu.
Press Point left/right button(s) to move a red frame poster to Setting Menu icon.
Press the black arrow point button to move the red framed pointer to the Setting Menu Icon.
Press Point Down button to move the red frame pointer to Lamp counter reset.
Press the Select button.

Another confirmation dialog box appears, select YES.

The Lamp box will disappear and the Lamp Replace Dialog box appears.
Select YES to reset Lamp Replace Counter.

NOTE: When you reset the Lamp Replace Counter the Lamp Replace indicator stops lighting.

Clean your filter before turning on the Sanyo PLC-SU70/PLC-XU73 projector and you’re good to go.

Protect yourself against counterfeits

Shelagh McNally — Mon, 21 Nov 2011 23:09:23 +0000

Sanyo POA LMP 111

Educate yourself against counterfeits

It’s time to change your projector lamp. You decide to buy online and your stress level skyrockets when you see the number of suppliers online. How do you spot the counterfeit from the genuine products? Learning about lamp modules is your first step towards protecting yourself against getting ripped off.

Know your parts

Your projector lamp has two parts: the bulb and the cage (or housing). It’s important to have both elements be genuine. Projector bulbs are high-performance and were developed to work closely with your projector. The cage contains the sensitive electrical elements but also keeps your lamp stable and makes it line up properly inside your projector.

Each manufacturer has its own cage design, which is why it’s crucial to have the correct model. Counterfeit lamps have not been manufactured with these specifics in mind and can damage your projector.

Tried and true

OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) are lamp modules created directly by the manufacturer for their specific projector. While they are the most expensive they are also the safest bet since they come fully guaranteed with genuine parts and have been inspected for quality. Sometimes it’s worth the price for less hassle.

Genuine lamps are hybrids lamps manufactured by companies holding the technology patent from the original company. These manufacturers are endorsed by the OEMs and sell genuine lamp companies built with cages from a different source. These alternate cages still meet the specifications set by the original manufacturer and are created in a quality-controlled environment using ISO9001 standards. Genuine lamps are typically 20% lower in price compared to the OEM lamps.

3M-78-6969-8919-9 Module

Beware the naked bulb

While some manufacturers do sell the bulb only without the cage, it’s not a recommended purchase for the average layperson. It can be a complicated process that should be done by a skilled repair person or at least by someone with a technical background. If you do try and change your light bulb, use rubber gloves. You don’t want any oil from your skin on the bulb. These bulbs burn at such a high temperature that the area with the oil will be hotter than other surface parts and may prematurely burn out. The most important reason to avoid this kind of replacement is that many counterfeit lamps are sold as bulb only.

Phillips has authorized MI Technologies to sell their replacement bulbs since this company also manufactures its own cages. It’s this is a rare exception to the rule, however.

A fake is a fake is a fake

Compatible or copy lamps are both euphemisms for counterfeit lamps. These “non-genuine” lamps don’t use OEM bulbs or cages and manufacture their product with less durable components. This can create havoc in your projector by damaging the sensitive operating components, causing an electrical short circuit, overheating the projector and sometimes exploding inside. You may also find your warranty has become void after installing these third-party parts. If the price of your replacement lamp is less than 20% of the original manufacturer’s price – walk away.

Be careful with recycling

Re-Lamped or refurbished lamps re-use the old cage and simply put in a new bulb. While its gaining in popularity as an enviromentaly-friendly solution, you should proceed with caution. Many lamp modules have been designed not to be taken apart and refurbished so you should check with your manufacturer. When replacing the lamp be sure not to bend or twist the cage or it may not fit back into the projector properly.

You’ll need very specific conditions to recycle your cage. Your existing cage needs to be fairly pristine so if its warped or cracked replace it. If there is a lot of dust, replace it. (Dust particles can heat up and clog the cooling process making the projector overheat.) A broken lamp also means you should buy a new cage. The bulbs do leave behind small traces of mercury and should be cleaned properly. Be sure to check inside connectors and if any are twisted, old and worn, they too will have to be changed. If your warranty is still valid, it may be smarter to buy new. It you’re not mechanically inclined, buy new as well. Learn more about pros and cons of new vs. old cages,

Go with original replacement projection lamps

Shelagh McNally — Sat, 12 Nov 2011 05:40:24 +0000

Generic DLP Lamps may cost you more in the long run

When it comes to replacing the lamp in your DLP Projector , you’ll want to protect your investment and buy from a certified manufacturer or reseller. It may be tempting to buy a generic replacement off the Internet but that may end up costing you more in the long run. Many of these generic brands are priced lower because they’ve been manufactured with inferior or even counterfeit parts. The initial savings upfront may not be worth it if your projector ends up being damaged.

The subtle technology of DLP lamps

On the surface generic brands may appear to be the same but their technology is actually quite different from the official brand lamp manufactured by Philips Lighting. DLP Projectors use high pressure to generate light and this pressure needs to be controlled inside the lamp. Authentic projector lamps have been calibrated to the exact wattage in order to control the pressure. Too high a pressure may result in the lamp exploding and damaging the inside of your projector. A generic lamp may also give off too little pressure resulting in a low light output and a poor picture quality.

The lamps also need a high voltage in order to work and so been have designed to meet each projectors specific requirements and dimensions. They are able to hold up to the demands needed to operate within the DLP environment. Non-original lamps have not been designed to handle the subtleties in wattage and pressure. When you purchase the right projector lamp, you are guaranteed it’s going to work and not damage your projector.

Not all brands are alike

As the Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM), Philips handles 60% of the marker for overhead projectors. Their high-quality bulbs have an average life span of close to 2,000 hours and have been manufactured to be compatible with other components of your projector including the ballast and power supply. Once installed, Philips lamps are going to get your projector working at optimum levels.

The unknown can be costly

Generic brands sold through the Internet can’t offer this kind of guarantee, particularly those manufactured in China, where the standards are lower and regulations not as strict. Installing a cheaper brand may actually damage other sensitive components connected to your projectors operating system. You may also find your warranty has become void after installing these third-party parts.

For peace of mind

When you purchase from an authorized Reseller and Dealer, you know you’re receiving a Philips bulb that is reliable, durable and safe. Why sacrifice peace of mind or run the risk of having your projector break down before a major presentation for the sake of a slightly cheaper generic brand? Simplify your life and buy OEM or genuine DLP projector lamps.

Class-Action Lawsuit Settlement Makes Toshiba Pay For Bad DLP TV Lamps

FixYourDLP.com — Tue, 04 May 2010 22:18:05 +0000

If you haven’t heard, Toshiba is being forced to give out refunds through a class-action settlement that claims Toshiba knowingly misrepresented the life of their proprietary, direct current, DLP lamps, which we all know to be extremely short compared with their Philips Lighting counterparts, whom use alternating current in their UHP brand lamps.

Wired staff writer Jose Fermoso writes:

“The class-action lawsuit, Ersler v. Toshiba of America Inc., had a claim that Toshiba ‘knowingly misrepresented the life span of the bulbs in the lamps contained in the lamp assembly component of its 2004 and 2005 DLP television models.’ If true, this would mean the sale of the TVs had brought about a ‘breach of express and implied warranties,’ and a violation of the State’s consumer Fraud Act.”

If you own one of the TVs and know have the right to the claim, you can go to the site created for the settlement at www.dlplampsettlement.com, or you can call the toll-free 1-800-894-1766.

Customers with DLP televisions using generic lamps have all complained that the cost of lamps has been high and the life of the bulbs is all too short. Buying the right brand DLP TV or other rear projection television lamp will be the most cost efficient, which is why we’ve always recommended Philips brand lamps – the inventor of UHP lighting technology.

Via Wired Magazine

Help with a malfunctioning Samsung DLP

hooligian — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 18:05:21 +0000

I have a Sammy HLP5063W that is about 4-5 years old. It is definitely within the timeframe for the lamp to go. My wife was watching the TV the other day and it stopped working. She described it as “all of a sudden there was this loud vibrational noise and the screen went all striated and then all black”. She turned off the power on the TV, unplugged it for a minute, plugged it in again and the noise came back even though the power was off. I took a look at it when i got home, but there doesn’t seem to be anything happening with it. Any ideas on what the problem could be? Is it a blown lamp, or maybe the color wheel?

Samsung DLP Shuts Itself Off

Sojan — Fri, 25 Sep 2009 20:37:06 +0000

I have finally fixed my Samsung HLS5086WX/XAA, and I think I know what caused the problem.

I’ll relate my experiences and explain my repairs and conjectures as non-technically as I can. Any DLP experts are more than welcome to correct anything I have factually incorrect.

I bought the 50″ TV in late 2005 and it was trouble-free for about a year.

The first problem it had was shutting itself off intermittently and displaying the lamp door interlock LED code. I added some foam tape to the tab on the lamp door to hold the switch down a little better and that more or less corrected the problem for about another year. In Jan 2009, we moved and the TV started acting up again. This time it was giving me a lamp trouble code. I doubted that the problem could actually be the lamp because the picture was bright and clear (when it was on), and the lamp itself has no sensors or components. It’s just a bulb, right?

I also figured this would have excluded the colorwheel, since the set performed well before it shut itself off again. This left the Lamp Ballast. I replaced that, but the problem continued. I still didn’t consider the lamp itself as a possibility, so I replaced the colorwheel (there was a little bit of scuffing on the bearing, which should spin freely). That still didn’t correct the problem. Finally, I gave in and tried replacing the lamp. That fixed it!

The only thing I could figure was that none of these three components had failed exactly, but that they had degraded to the point where the sensors were faulting out. When I replaced any one of the new components with the original (leaving the other two new parts in place), the problem came back. This appeared to support my theory.

The three key (user-replaceable) components that are involved are:

the lamp (just a powerful lightbulb that provides a bright white light)
the lamp ballast (controls power to the lamp)
the colorwheel (a spinning disc with colored pie-shaped sections that filters the light into the different hues)

These are all separate components, but they are all interdependent and must operate together to make the TV function properly. If any one of them starts to degrade, it can cause a cascade failure in the other two. They also appear to burn-in together. This means that they all age at the same rate, so even though there may technically be nothing wrong with two of the three components, the may read a new replacement part as a fault simply because it’s new. Keep in mind, I’m stating this in very simple terms, but that’s basically what happened with my TV.

My advice:

Do the math. This TV’s street value is only about $600 and you’ll spend almost $300 in parts to get it working again. You’re probably better off junking this 780p DLP P.O.S. and buying a new 1080p LCD.

If you do want to fix it, then order all three components at once and save on shipping. At the first sign of trouble, leave the set turned off until you’re ready to repair it. The repeated On-Off cycle in a short period of time (less than 15 mintues) will kill your lamp, ballast and probably your colorwheel’s sensor and/or air-bearings as well. Replace all three parts and enjoy your TV for another year or two when it will likely crap out again.

Samsung DLP, replaced bulb, worked for 3 hours

ferrispd — Fri, 25 Sep 2009 20:37:06 +0000

Hi Everybody, I’ve been searching here before I bought a replacement bulb for my DLP but now I actually need to post a question.

So I ordered a new bulb from discount merchant and installed it, it worked for 3 hours and then my TV quit on me. I took out the bulb….once it cooled and looked at it, It did not have the broken glass in it that was present in the bulb it replaced so I assumed it was okay. I looked up stuff online, read the troubleshooting tips that came with my new bulb and called DM about the problem. All the advise suggested that the ballast was bad and needed replaced. For reference the TV attempts to turn on, plays the melody and there are a series of clicking noises then the TV powers down and powers up again with the same noises and results, there is no light from the screen and the picture was fine before it died, no weird colors or anything.

So I ordered a new ballast from Sears and installed it and the lamp, and nothing has changed, same sounds. I want to be convinced that the bulb has failed but I thought I would turn to you guys before spending anymore money.

Thanks in advance,

-Pat

New lamp, can’t get TV to stay on to find a menu page

anita barnum — Fri, 25 Sep 2009 20:37:06 +0000

Hello, I’ve read the directions to install the new lamp, but when I press both menu buttons on from the TV and Control, the TV turns off. I’ve moved the TV away from the wall and plugged it straight into the wall not the surge protector, still having trouble. Thank you.

more help with Samsung

dodger5588 — Fri, 25 Sep 2009 20:37:06 +0000

I have tried to read through a lot of posts and fix this myself, but I’m getting frustrated, not to mention broke. I have a Samsung HLP-5063W. Have had it for about 4 years. I was watching TV one night and heard a pop and squealing. I turned it back on and there was a light picture with no color. So I figured that since there was still a picture it was just the color wheel. Took it apart and it was shattered. Replaced that and it’s perfectly quiet, but no picture at all. It flashes lamp for a while, shuts off, turns back on a couple times and all 3 lights flash. According to Samsung, should be the lamp. Replaced that and still the same thing. When I plug it in I do get the clicking noise which I assume is the ballast trying to fire the lamp. So I really don’t know what to do next. Is it possible that I didn’t put something back together correctly or should I just break down and call an expert in? Thanks.

Samsung TV Owner’s Manual for your DLP Television

Arturo — Tue, 24 Mar 2009 22:45:27 +0000

Samsung TV Owner’s Manuals

Hello again, this week’s owner’s manuals are for the Samsung DLP TVs. All of the Samsung manuals are available in PDF format.

Stayed tuned for more TV owner’s manual from Fixyourdlp.com

You can download or view them here:

Samsung HL-T5656W, HL-T6156W, HL-T6756W Click here.
Samsung HL-S4266W, HL-S4666W, HL-S5066W, HL-S5666W, HLS6166W Click here.
Samsung HL-T5055W, HL-T5655W Click here.
Samsung HL-R4266W Click here.
Samsung HL-S5087, HL-S5687W, HL-S6187W Click here.
Samsung HL-R5688W Click here.
Samsung HL-P4667W, HL-P5067W, HL-P5667W, HL-P6167W Click here.
Samsung HL-S5086W, HL-S5686W, HL-S6186W Click here.
Samsung HL-R4264W, HL-R4264W, HL-R5064W, HL-R5664W, HL-R6164W Click here.
Samsung HL-R5078W, HL-R5678W, HL-R6178W, HL-R7178W Click here.
Samsung HL-R5668W, HL-R6168W, HL-R6768 Click here.
Samsung HL-R4656W, HL-R5056W, HL-R5656W, HL-R6156W Click here.
Samsung HL-P4663W, HL-P5063W, HL-P5663W, HL-P6163W Click here.
Samsung HL-R4667W, HL-R5067W, HL-R5667W, HL-R6167W, HL-R6767W Click here.
Samsung HL-R4262W, HL-R4662W, HL-R5062W, HL-R5662W, HL-R6162W Click here.
Samsung HL-R4677W, HL-R5677W Click here.
Samsung SP43L2HX, SP50L2HX, SP61L2HX, SP46L5HX, SP56L5HX, Click here.
Samsung HL-M4365W, HL-M5065W, HL-M437W, HL-507W, HL-M617W Click here.
Samsung HL-T5656W, HL-T6156W, HL-T6756 Click here.
Samsung HL-N467W1, HL-N567W1, HL-N4365, HL-N5065W1, HL-N437W1, HL-N507W1, HL-N617W1 Click here.
Samsung HL-T5089S, HL-T5689S, HL-T6189S Click here.
Samsung HL-T7288W Click here.