Samsung DLP Won’t Turn On & Customer Service Doesn’t Respond
Edit: This is a post by a consumer and FixYourDLP.com reader.
September 21, 2008
Dear Sir or Madam:
I am writing this letter because I have some time while I wait for my Samsung HL-R4266W DLP TV to start working again. On random days (usually two days out of seven) your product just doesn’t work. Well actually the projection lamp does turn on, but there is no picture and no sound. After waiting about 30 minutes sometimes the unit will then turn on correctly. Other times I pull the plug and wait and it sometimes comes on.
The indicator lights are of no help to diagnose this intermittent problem.
On September 1, 2008 I spoke with the 800 726 7864 customer service line. After about 30 minutes of being passed around I have Trans # and the advice to call Mort’s TV a Samsung authorized service center. On September 15th, the customer service line finally admitted that their only function was to get the TV connected. They can’t and don’t help diagnose problems.
Mort’s TV was somewhat helpful. They indicated that we should not bring the set in until it was failing a majority of the time, as they can’t diagnose a two out of seven problem. Oh, and the bench charge is a minimum of $100 plus the unknown price of parts and labor to be determined.
So bottom line I own one of your products that doesn’t turn on 2/7 of the time, that isn’t supported by the customer line and can’t be diagnosed by your authorized service center. That is NOT a recipe for me to purchase replacement or additional Samsung products in the future.
SO HERE IS WHAT I WANT. I’d like to speak with a technically savvy Samsung engineer familiar with the product who can interpret the various trouble lights and offer an opinion of what may be wrong and a hint of how and how much it may cost to repair.
I have the same problem, I am an electronic technician and have been troubleshooting an Intermittent No start on an HLN437. Samsung will not help you. I’ve tried. Samsung DLP tv’s have design flaws that fail at an alarming rate. There is no way to determine the cause of the failure without replacing parts with known good parts, (out of the mouth of their service center representative). Even the service manual will tell you that if the ballast isn’t commanded on that you should start by replacing the light engine, and if that doesn’t work replace the digital board. We’ll there’s been people on the net that have done just that and still no resolution to their problem, despite having spent hundreds or thousands in parts and labor. There is too many people all over the net talking about bad bulbs or color wheels to even begin to find an answer to this question without somebody stomping on you thread. So far this is what I have and have done: Intermittently the tv fails to start, the green lamp led will blink for about 4 minutes during which the tv is unresponsive, the fans are on but no color wheel or lamp operation. At approx. 4-5 minutes the tv will cycle off then on, fail, repeat again, then end up with the generic failure code of all three led’s blinking on the front panel. At this time you can only disconnect the power cord and wait a couple hours. I have pin-tested all the connectors between the boards. My ballast has 320V dc signal on red and green and 5V and Gnd at the three pin connector but it is not being commanded on. The color wheel will not begin to spin, but if you listen very closely you can here something actuating from the light engine area. The power supply board seems to be functioning correctly according to the fact that it is supplying it’s wide range of voltages as marked on the board. However I have noticed that when the set fails there is a relay that might not be energized. During proper operation the unit seems to make 2 clicks on start up(sound like relays). During failure’s it only seems to make one click. This is odd because I only saw one blue relay on the power supply board. One time during probing the connector from the power supply to the input board the set actually resumed normal operation. I will go get some freeze spray at this point and see if I can locate the failing region. I haven’t found any schematic that has test point voltages. Maybe they’re not meant for the public, or maybe samsung just want’s to ensure they can get away with charging people for parts. Either way, I wouldn’t be surprised if they end up with a class action law suit from all the people they are preying upon. Let’s start one today! I know a lawyer willing to organize it.
roy have you started a lawsuit yet ? if you have please contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org thank you .
We have a Samsung DLP TV – HLR6768WX/XXA
Doesn’t go on. Repair Master does not repair them anymore. Paid $3,299
3 monthes later we are still going back and forth with Samsung. Each time we get a different story from different people. I have wrote down every person spoken to and their comments. I just made another call this morning. They are making another ticket up 4 or 5 one. I will never stop calling them. I want to also join in on class-action suit.
I have the exact same problem AND, the same problem with Customer Service! My TV is 3 years old, I spent 2K on it, had to change the lamp, the color wheel due to a horrible, screeching noise, and now, the exact same symptoms as has been described by so many people on this forum!! If you know a lawyer, tell me what you need! I’ve escalated with Samsung ECR, but once I contacted them, I’ve yet to be able to contact them again! Waiting on hold, trying to use their email form is a joke and basically, now that I’m out of warranty, they could care less (at least, that’s all I can conclude based on my treatment from Samsung!).
If there is anyone there that can help with this issue (again, it is what is described above to a T), I’d appreciate it! I just can’t tell what part is causing a problem.
I did reply within the Samsung Forum to someone else and realized I didn’t leave my model or anything (operator headspace issue), so to clarify, I have a HL-R4266W, 42″ DLP. Here is a lttle bit about my saga – maybe someone can help??
For several months, we experienced the screeching noise that is associated with the color wheel. This item was purchased and installed approx 3 weeks ago. I also ordered a lamp as my picture was dim. During this time, I did contact Samsung via their WEBsite and spoke with someone who was pretty abrupt and not very helpful. I then called back, spoke to a different tech who did seem to help. After gathering all available information, I then replaced the color wheel and the lamp. The tv came on just fine with the exception of the colors being reversed due to replacement of the color wheel. After more research, it was determined that jumper CN810 needed to be removed. To locate this jumper was quite difficult, however, after removing the heatsink fan and spring clip, I found the jumper and removed it. The tv powered on and did just fine for 2 days. While watching it, it simply powered down and all lights on the front began flashing. After further research and more calls to Samsung,I was informed that it was the light tunnel. This information was given to me by a Level 2 technician. I was not very happy about that, so researched further and spoke with Samsung once more and was then told it was possible it could be the ballast. So, a ballast was ordered. This latest part was installed and I attempted to turn on the tv again. This time, only the lamp light flashed while the tv tried to power on. The color wheel spins up (it can be heard), the ballast clicks and then the tv shuts back down. I then called once more and spoke with another tech, but no new suggestions were given except to have a service tech come out and try to repair it.
At this point, after replacing color wheel, the lamp and ballast, I am not going to put any more money into this particular set. This television cost $2,000.00 when purchased and now, I’ve put almost $300.00 into it. The service tech wants an additional $200-$300 just to come out and tell me what is wrong! That will bring my out-of-pocket expenses close to $600.00, almost the price of a brand-new, LCD 42″ television!
BTW, if I understand correctly, a light tunnel failure/collapse would not keep the TV from turning on….
I’m assuming we have a very similar problem. I posted this in another forum but maybe someone can assist us.
have read through most of this thread (which is fantastic btw – great seeing so many people being helpful). unfortunately I now have information overload – as far as I can tell my issue could be:
I need a new Ballast
I need to grab a soldering iron and change a number of capacitors
I may need to change the Colour wheel
I might need a new engine
I might have a ‘loose’ lamp door lever
All of the above
If anyone can help me troubleshoot I’d gladly roll my sleeves up and have a go.
The issue is:
TV works fine for long periods and then, out of the blue, colours will go ‘funky’ and it will turn itself off to standby.
Then, when I press a channel on my remote, one of two things happens :
a) picture comes back (everyone happy)
b) 3 cycle repeat complete with turn-off melody on each cycle and a whining sound (Please note NOT a very noisy sound as seems to be reported by the colour wheel issues) and then, inevitably, as night turns to day, the three blinking lights.
What I did when this first happened : Replaced the lamp.
What happened : Tv worked FINE for about 8 months and then the issue above happened again.
What I did then : Bought ANOTHER lamp
What happened: TV worked FINE for about 6 DAYS and then same issue happens.
Now, its like a lottery, I turn it on some mornings and get the blinking lights straight away. I’ll try again a few hours later and the tv works as normal for either a few hours or even a few days and then will randomly revert to the 3BL cycle again.
Please help – which area should I concentrate on? Please note also I have moved to the UAE so tv is out of warranty and also no real customer service to speak of so I’m on my own (apart from you guys )
Random question : If i unplug all the inputs (xbox,PC,Cable tv etc) turn it on (into standby mode), and wait for 10 minutes before turning it on – is there any technical reason why this might help me on start up at least? I just read it somewhere and its something I haven’t tried.
if anyone can assist I would be so grateful – its the ‘oh great it works’ euphoria to every now and then ‘oh no it doesn’t’ despair cycle thats killing me – I honestly think if it didn’t work at ALL I’d be handling this better – insanity is beckoning.
Dunroamin, I don’t have an HL-R and haven’t researched it but I don’t know why you would have to remove a jumper. That would probably mean you have the wrong color wheel or a generic one or an alternate model ??? But one thing comes to mind, you say you can hear the ballast clicking. From the back of the TV do you see the bulb light up at all? The way those ballast’s work is by igniting the bulb with multiple high voltage sparks(thus the clicks) and then eventually leveling off to a relatively low voltage once lit. I know that in the factory service menu for my television there was a setting to specify whether the lamp is an OSRAM or a Toshiba which made a difference in how bright my picture was because it changes the power supplied to the lamp. If you can manage to get it to start at all that may be a contributing factor to the problem. If the Television is commanding the ballast to fire that means that most of the other circuits check ok by the digital board and light engine. Sound’s like you’ve got a bad bulb. Not uncommon if you bought a generic or if your TV is prone to overheating due to dust or other issues. However! Exactly like you said happened, If the tv functions properly and you were to take the lamp cover off it would shut down immediately and all three lights would start blinking. Check your lamp door switch to make sure it is functioning correctly.
What I’ve done to my Tv lately:
I cleaned the terminals on the Cable connecting the Digital Board to the Light Engine (looks like a PC serial cable) using some 800 grit sand paper and then contact cleaner. I’ve tweaked the settings in my factory service menu according to another forum regarding my picture quality. I’ve realized that my TV seems to not start whenever I have a video signal going to it before I turn it on. Basically it doesn’t fail as often when I turn my TV on before my computer or DVD player. I still have the flickering brightness issue mostly on whites whenever the majority of the screen is white (like when I’ve got an explorer window open and maximized).
Tony – try cleaning contacts that I was talking about. The only moving parts in the unit should be the fans and the color wheel, if something is whining it’s likely a color wheel. That’s a guess though! Keep in mind I haven’t seen your TV but that is my guess based on the fact that you said it had color issues and whining noise. This doesn’t explain why it fixes itself when you hit a button on your remote. Check to see if the colors act up if you turn off your DNie and DNR options. Does it do it on all the inputs? The color wheel can make the three blinking led error code. So will the Lamp door lever. I haven’t heard anyone say anything about defective or leaky capacitors. Where did you see that?
But for the most part the next step I will be taking if my tv starts to fail again is rolling it over to the window and letting it go, or pretty much just loading it on the back of my truck and pushing it out onto the freeway. 🙂 I could just pawn it but I don’t think I could sleep at night doing that to some other poor soul. Thanks Samsung.
Tony – I am experiencing the EXACT same problem as you, although I didn’t notice the funky colors until recently… I have replaced the Lamp and the Ballast (not the color wheel yet).
Did you ever find your solution?
we have a similar problem.we got our tv 1 year ago,as a christmas present.it gradually became hard to start,where now,it is not starting..no picture..no sound.this was a gift,given to us,from our son,who came back from iraq and used his combat pay.he is now with the nypd and he also,bought himself one of these tvs,,and is expecting the same problem to occur.he bought it from circuit city.include us,in your list for this lawsuit!we have no other option.
After spending too much time researching what might be wrong with my sisters HLR4677W. I have come to one conclusion. Samsung decided to create a cash cow product. What I mean is they made a TV that will always needs parts through they years to keep working. What needs to be done is a class action law suit. From all the posting Samsung must have known what a sh****T product they made when they distributed the DLP product line. I’ve replace a the lamp and the TV doesn’t, next would be the ballast. Samsung you s***ck.
I have a Samsung 52inch tv. When I turn the tv on I have sound but no picture.. The lamp light comes and I hear a loud humming noise comming from the back of the tv. Any suggestions
Sounds like your color wheel. Take your lamp out of the TV to see if it’s shattered if not it’s most likely the color wheel.
Thanks for information.
You’re welcome Greg.
does anybody know the voltage coming into the input of the samsung tv ballast model : hl-p5063w
The input is 220-410v DC and the output is 100-120W. Hope this is helpful…
I have an HLS6767 Samsung DLP TV , no picture 3 lights blink when you turn it on. We replace the lights,ballast,color wheel still no picture , sound just the blinking indicator lights will turn on…any help!Please inform me if their is a class action suit going on.
There are a few things you need to check into. 1. Did you purchase the color wheel just by itself or did you get the housing along with the color wheel? There is a sensor inside the color wheel housing that can also go bad. 2. If you purchased just the color wheel by itself you may have connected the ribbon wire backwards when you replaced it. 3. Did you ensure the lamp enclosure was completely closed. Please get back to us so we can better assist you. Thanks.
thanx on the tip to make sure to close every thing up. when i took the cover off and i was replacing the lamp i noticed a small little lever and when i saw that comment every thing made sence as i went back to my tv i picked up the cover and noticed that the cover would push that small red lever as a contact point . again thank you
I have a 50″ Samsung HLS-5065W that I bought December 2006. I had a problem with the TV turning on almost immediately out of the box, called Customer Service, was told to take it back, which I did. I had the same problem with the next one, and they sent out a tech. It was a bad lamp cover switch. I didn’t have another problem until about 2 weeks ago when the TV went out suddenly. We were able to turn it back on and it would keep on running. A couple of days later, it wouldn’t turn on and made a kind of whirring sound. We unplugged it, ordered a new lamp (the lamp wasn’t even burning), replaced it, and it worked for about 5 hours. Happyness abounded. Woke up the next morning, the TV wouldn’t start and it was making the whirring noise. Thought it was a bad bulb. Sent the old new one back, and they sent us a new one. Just installed it today, and the TV won’t turn on and it’s whirring. I was going to try to replace the ballast, but after reading these posts, I don’t think I’m even going to try, since I am not an electrician. If it’s the color wheel, I may as well buy a new LCD for close to the same amount of money. I really don’t want to pay for a service tech to come out, so I guess I can just say that this was a $1200 lesson to avoid Samsung. It’s funny because I researched their DLP’s before I bought mine and all the reviews were great. Goes to show what you get for investing in a new technology…
If anyone is serious about a class action, please let me know, I will definitely be interested.
Recently my 50″ Samsung HLP-5063W began turning off sporadically. A few days ago, I heard a popping sound come from the TV; the picture switched to black & white and it began to flicker like a strobe light. Soon after, the humming sound began. Based on my internet research, I concluded it had to be the color wheel. In order to order the correct color wheel, I had to see which one was in the TV. I found really helpful instructions on how to do that on YouTube. It appears to be the BP96-00674A “Air Suspension” color wheel (it has a silver cylinder.) I ordered the color wheel without the housing because the site said the housing was reusable and it only took a moment to change. My question to you is do I have to be mindful of anything when replacing the color wheel within its housing. I’ve read about inserting or removing “CN810” pin connectors. Is that necessary? If so, where do I find these pin connectors? Also, do I have to do anything to the TV’s bios or reset the timing of the color wheel? If so, any instructions would be helpful. Please keep in mind that I’m not a savvy technician. By the way, I don’t know how or why but with the exception of a few shards of glass sticking out from its motor, the color wheel had shattered into a million pieces. Thanks in advance. Regards.
Same problem with my 50 in Samsung DLP, looking to join the class action lawsuit, please let me know.
I have a 50″ Samsung with countless problems… Green Screen with no sound, won’t turn off, will not turn on many times… 2k for an unreliable piece of garbage; what a source of frustration.
I would like to join in on the lawsuit as well, please let me know where I can sigh up!
I have a 54 inch samsung DLP. One night it was working fine, the next, the screen will not turn on and it keeps resetting until it gives me the three blinking dots. I took out the lamp and the bulb looked ok. where can i go from there?
After reading the posts, I would consider myself to be more lucky. I have the HL-S4666W for 3 years and just now it starts having turning on problem exactly as Roy described. When it manages to turn on, the picture/sound is perfect though and it doesn’t seem like one or two clicks at start up makes any difference. When it fails, the green “lamp” LED blinks for ~4 minutes and then no LED at all (the unit is still on I believe but with no picture/sound); to get out of this mode, I have to un-plug the power cord, plug back in, then the red “standby” LED is on as normal. If I repeat this cycle 2 – 4 times, eventually it will turn on. My suspect is some bad relay switch needs extra time warming up to turn on but the TV has a ~4 minutes timeout period after which it goes to an error mode. The question is which one to replace? I will try to clean up the terminal contacts, remove the lamp, clean up the dust, and then re-install the lamp.
I have a model HLM507W. (given to me) It has the identical symptoms that Quang’s TV has. If I get it to power on I can watch with great picture and sound. Turn it off and wait a few minutes or a while, and it goes into the “wont start up” condition where the “Lamp” light blinks green, and after 4 attempts (4 minute interval) it stops and does nothing until I unplug it. I try to power it on, and after it times out, I unplug it and try again. usually after a LONG time of being unplugged it comes on
I don’t hear the color wheel spinning up so would replacing that probably fix it? I just replaced the bulb so I’d hate to see $80 go to waste.
Frustrating because its awesome when it works
if anyone has any ideas, that would be great!
We have the HL-R5078W 50″ DLP that we bought a few years ago thru’ Tweeter Etc (Now out of business here). Recently it appears that the lamp is getting dimmer… So I’m expecting to get a replacement lamp – Is there a recommended LED replacement lamp??
Is this particular model more reliable than others since it was offered with a warranty(!)
I hope this post helps those who are in similar situation. I have a 3rd gen Samsung DLP HLP6163 for over 5 years. A couple weeks ago, the lamp would not switch on but the sound would come through when I turned on the TV. It cycled through on/off 3 times and flashed the 3 lights for lamp replacement. I got around the problem for a few days by turning on the TV first when there’s no signal going in. After that, the lamp would not turn no matter what I tried. I pulled the lamp and it looked fine, no burn, no melted wire but there were some tiny “black dust”. I heard clicks and wheel spinning when I turned the set on. I decided to buy a new bulb first, a blaster next and a new TV if both replacements fail to repair the TV. I am happy to say the TV is back on after I installed the new bulb. Good luck.
i have somewhat the same problem mine will not turn on has red light on front button flashing and green lamp light flashing , i do not hear any noise at all i had this in storage for about 2 years and it worked fine before that if anyone has information that can help me or class action lawsuit please contact me so i may get involved thank you for your help email@example.com
My Samsung DLP has been gradually getting worse and worse. There afre periods where the picture splits into 4 sectiions of the view (with sort of ghost images on the screen). It also flickers and then a solid black line appears at the bottom of the screen. Now the fan is making a horrible racket when it is turned off (and sometimes continues when it is turned back on). Now when turning the TV on, I hear sound but no picture and the set turns off and on a few times before all three lights blink. My father has a Samsung DLP as well with similar problems. After reading all of the comments on this site, I am wondering if there are any Samsung DLP “success stories” out there?
I have a HLP 5063W and just started hearing a buzzing noise last week. It’s only happened 3 times so far (1 week’s time) and after it’s been on for hours. I turn it off and back on witihn seconds and the noise is gone. Also, picture and everything is perfect, even when noise starts. Is this the color wheel and would you have someone else install it (not too techy)?
I have a samsung hlr4667w. The colors were getting all messed up and didnt know anything about these forums but figured that each time I banged on the tv the color would fix up and after all mess up again. So I knew it was a moving part. I figured to open it up and clean out the back. I worked for a day and back again to psychadelic colors. and the banging few the screen for a few seconds. Now i open it up and took everything out and discoverd the color wheel and notice it was dirty and when I spinned it i would hear a scratching and knew i need to replace it becuz i may have too much resistance tht its not spinning fast enough. But when i put everthing back together the screen doesnt light up. The lamp does turn on everything would seem to work but the lamp light in the front keeps flashing to where it eventually stops flashing but still no image no sound. Anyone know that could be wrong. Or did i just mess it up and need to get a lcd????
Same problems as all of you. Green lines, boxes. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doen’t. Paid over $1,700 three years ago. TV went to hell over a year ago. I’m in for any lawsuit.
I have the same exact issues as above. If any of you have started a lawsuit let me know, I would like in on my HLS6767 pos.
I have the same problem and have had it from day one….initially I was told that it was not the TV but the cable box….once warranty was gone…it was determined to be TV…SAMSUNG FUKING SUCKS….REFUSES TO ANSWER……I AM FILING COMPLAINTS WITH AG’S OFFICE…..THAT’S WHAT EVERYONE SHOULD DO!
Same problem. I have replaced the bulb and color wheel.
This time was crazy. Seems the over-the-air-antenna signal was in and out.
Once I disconnected the offending input the tv came back to sanity with the “week signal” message. Seems the built-in tuner gets overloaded or something on startup if the signal isn’t good enough.
My boyfriend just had the same thing happen to him today. He has a Samsung DLP and has only had it for 14 months…it just stopped working out of nowhere!
my 52″ samsung tv has no red color at all, on menu screens the blue and green are as sharp as was when new, i cant hear the color wheel spinning, how does a guy tell?
Its probably the jumper brent. I just went through all this bs everyone is talking about as well. spent 400$ in parts only to say skrew and just bought an LED. Im in for the suit though.
I bought my 56″ DLP 3 years ago for $1,800. A week after warranty expired the lamp died. So I bought a new OEM lamp. 6 months later, the lamp died again so I bought a new lamp again. Less than a year later, lamp died again. I’ve spent almost a thousand bucks on lamp replacements alone in less than 3 years of owning this product. Around 10 months back, I experienced the same problems you guys are talking about in this forum. The TV turned on and off intermittently. Initially, I though it was the HDMI switcher that I was using so I connected the cablebox directly to the TV, nope. It ran for some time without a flaw then it’s back. So I thought it’s the cablebox. Had the cablebox replaced. Worked for sometime again and then it came back. So I knew then it’s the TV. My initial solution is to remove the plug for a couple of minutes then put it back on. That solution though cumbersome proved to work for several months then last month it all stopped working. I know it’s not the bulb as the TV turns on for a few seconds and I see pictures on the TV. After spending almost $3,000 on this TV, I decided not to have this TV fixed anymore. I don’t want to spend more money on it and then let it die on me again after several months again. NO! Enough is enough! I am not going to buy any more Samsung products. Anyone who have a class action suit agains Samsung, please let me know.
My HL-R4567W wouldnt come on. The unit is almost 4 years old. Lights indicated the lamp was bad. Ordered one and it went out in three weeks. Ordered another and didn’t turn on the TV until I had a service tech look at it (My Area TV Repair). I was hearing a whirling noise when I shut off the set. I thought maybe that was causing the light to go out. The repair person replaced the color wheel. I did notice that the housing for the wheel was different. The repair person said that it would work. The set worked but it has color streaks on the darker colors and when the set warms up I can hear a whinning sould coming from the color wheel. Contacted the repair person and waited for three days for him not to show except for number of excuses and reseting the appointment. I think he installed a used part from another TV even thought the part # was correct. He also installed a jumper that would fix the color since initially it was a real mess. It fixed it some, enough not to be noticed with a bright screen. I’ve spent about $500 that I could have spent on a new set. I have lots of Samsung products but I think for TVs, I’ll look for another brand. The class-action suit may be an answer since there are to many similar problems with Samsung’s sets of this type. I vote for the suit.
Hi gents, I have an hlp6163w piece of crap and in five years I have replaced 3 bulbs, 1 color wheel,
and two fans. And now the dmd board died and I have vertical lines across the screen. The dmd board costs 400 to 600 dollars. Five years ago I paid 2k for piece of garbage and Samsung pretty much told me to go fuck myself. My answer to all of you is stop buying their goods and services until they learn to become responsible for their products. I just love the web.
I bought my HL-R4667W in December 2005. Same problems as a lot of you. Green lines, boxes. When this happens I have to uplug the set several times and then it gets a normal picture. This should not happen with a set that is just 4 years old. Every forum that I review indicate that new parts are impossible to find and that used parts are iffy at best. I’m in if anyone is starting a class action lawsuit.
Much of the same. Set will not turn on
Bought in Sept 2007, HLS5679W. Unit is not used that much either.
Just call a local service company to get estimate.
Any news on a class action lawsuit.
I’m actually an experienced TV technician and have been beating my head against a brick wall on a samsung HLP6163WX/XAA . It originally was a color wheel issue – an obvious one – customer said they heard a loud buzzing, then no picture. Found the clr whl shattered. Replaced color wheel – no pic, but turns on. Replaced light engine cuz didn’t want to chance replacing just the ballast and finding something else (already checked lamp) Got picture for 15-30 mins then shuts down. Turn tv off and on gets pic back for 15-30 mins again. Lamp is still lit when it goes black. Changed digital board as this is normal symptom of bad digital board.
Well, now all that’s left is analog board and power supply, but I appear to be getting all voltages…
All this guess work is annoying – it’s like the manufacturers want you to blindly throw parts loosely based on symptoms. Circuit diagrams are almost unheard of in Sammy’s Service manuals and their troubleshooting flowcharts are sh–. Was very close to putting my foot through the screen and telling them their TV has to be replaced by the warranty or my company and I need to get a new line of work immediately.
OK, so I have a more than 18 month old HL-T6187S LED DLP TV from Samsung… The screen has wonderful green and blue color but NO RED. also the screen keeps flickering like the red is trying to work, but isn’t. PLEASE HELP!
Just thought I’d throw in my 2 cents. I’ve got a HL-T5075S that is having similar problems. I’ve replaced the lamp 3 times in 2 years and I suspect that now I have a bad color wheel. Samsung basically told me where to shove it when I called them and I would absolutely love to be involved in a law suit if there were one. Sounds like it’s never happened but if anybody knows of a class action I’d love to be contacted.
I have a HL61A750A1F and have had the same sort of thing happen that I have been reading on this page from others. Two months ago, the screen went blank. Repair man comes, changes the circuit board that supplies power to the bulb. Tv worked fine. Last week, I was watching tv, and it went blank again. Tv repiar man comes, tried changing every single circtuit board in the entire tv, and still no picture. The tv is barely 2 years old and cost about 2 grand. Please contact me if a lawsuit is put together because I want my money back. I don’t even want another tv, just my money, plus the cost of the repair man. Then I can go buy a new tv of a different brand.
Hey, got an SP61L6HX.
Very glad I went for the extended warranty as that has helped with some of the bulb, light engine and colour wheel replacements.
All up the bulbs have been 4-5 times I’d guess (even got a spare), the colour wheel twice (once by me, once by a tech), the light engine and maybe DMD was replaced once I forget the details (by a tech).
Now it has a new set of problems, the colours went wonky all pastel purple and green with horizontal lines (not colour wheel fault) I couldn’t turn it off by any means other than pulling the plug, I waited and turned it on, everything fine for just enough minutes to watch the end of Better off Ted (final, they kissed, yay).
Then it went wonky again, I have noticed one strange thing is that if I disconnect the hdmi cable the image (frozen) stays on screen (have it plugged into a laptop) and then the laptop blue-screen (how lucky am I?) and since the laptop doesn’t output to the TV while it is restarting the windows bluescreen just stayed on the TV till windows got started. (laptop screen of course showing startup process)
So what stops the TV from powering down? What stops the TV from recognizing it no longer has an input and replacing that with (admittedly also blue) no signal screen?
When I turn it on now it will sometimes start (and be ok for a minute or 3 before going to pastel vision).
Other times try again and again failing to start the bulb (bulb is fine though as other times it starts, ballast can’t explain other problems either).
And sometimes it will do as above but after giving up blink timer, lamp, standby & temp, but not always.
I am also in agreement on a class action, sounds like these things are built to fail, and fail, and fail, and fail….
aether22 at that google email service called gmail dot com
Just tried turning it on, it started fine and was fine for a minute at most, it then got lines, so I pressed DNIe on the remote and it was ok for a few seconds, then not.
So I tried pressing other buttons but my conclusion is that despite the lights on the tv showing that it can see the remote is communicating signals, nothings happens onscreen.
It is clear that the screen’s operating system has frozen/crashed.
So it is either the power board (how can I test this? there is a blackout the other day) or the computer whichever board that is on has died.
Or so I figure, still these faults don’t seem to always yield to logic.
Any suggestion? Should I just go buy an LCD?
Won’t be able to afford any 61″ monster right now…
Wow! I should have bought the sony. My samsung dlp is 4 years old, I’ve replaced the fan, bulb, and now it wont turn on and has a beeping noise coming out the back. It looks like I’m going down the same road as everyone else, pay over $2,000.00 for a tv that keeps costing me more money. What a racket.
Maybe you could change the blog title Samsung DLP Won’t Turn On & Customer Service Doesn’t Respond to something more suited for your subject you write. I loved the blog post however.
Our model is a HLP6163WX/XAA. We have had it since ’04. The lamp was changed once. The problem that is driving us crazy is the loss of signal that occurs when viewing a broadcast show. It is worse during scene changes and commercials. We get a blue screen that says loss of signal. Sometimes it goes black and white flashes. Sometimes the sound stays or not. At first we thought it was the receiver that was causing the signal loss. But we tested it though another TV and its fine. We switched all the inputs around and have determined it is the TV. While watching a DVD it is fine. Anyone else experience this loss of signal. Anything to be done to fix this? Thank you.
Was watching tv after replacing the bulb 3 months ago, tv flickers, screen goes blank. Bought another bulb, replaced it today, still nothing happens. Red standby/temp light is always on. When I hit the power button, the green timer light comes on for a few seconds, couple clicks, then nothing. Any suggestions?
Any traction with class action regarding this issue? Same thing with my HLT DLP.
Samsung HLP4663WX/XXA 46″ DLP.
I’ve owned the TV since 2004. My problems began about 3.5 years ago. The TV would intermittently turn off, recycle to the aforementioned series of LED Lamp (3x) to all three LED flashing after approx. 4 minutes. Initially, I pulled out the lamp and saw that it was still good and from all of the forums I visited I saw that I would have to replace the lamp, ballast and color wheel to be sure, which was too cost prohibitive. Samsung “tech support” was beyond useless, having people man the phones that were less knowledgeable than myself. Eventually, I was too frustrated to care anymore and just threw it into a corner.
About 2 years ago, on the recommendation of my in-laws, I took the TV to their TV repair person. They could find *nothing* wrong with the TV and it turned on perfectly for them, every time. They demonstrated it to me at their shop, and sure enough it always came on. I took the TV home, plugged it back in and it worked for 2 days before stopping again. I returned to the repair shop, and again (isn’t this always true) it worked perfectly for them. At this point, I determined that I was either dealing with dirty power or dealing with a command problem. After buying a $400 Monster power unit to provide clean power to the TV, I am pretty sure its a command problem. The TV, when it’s initially turned on, must have a faulty board that sometimes fails to send the proper start commands to the ballast, color wheel or lamp. I think it gets into a state where it fails to reset and will continually recycle thinking that the state is “on”, when it’s really “off” and fails to cycle up thinking there is a failed part. I returned home with the unit, plugged it in and when it came on, I told my wife and kids that we would leave it on until the lamp burned out. The TV stayed on in the house for >12 months and we never had a problem as long as we left it on (we were lucky that it restarted properly after a couple of power outages).
Last year, we moved and when the TV came on in the new house, we repeated the above behavior (always left the TV on). The lamp eventually burned out (I figure we had more than 14,000 hours on it considering all the hours it has been left on), and I replaced it. The TV behaved normally for about 2 months (turning it off and on as needed like we would with a normal appliance), and I was thinking all the problems were gone. Then one night, I turned it off before going to bed, and in the morning it returned to the same behavior before and will not come on with anything I’ve tried.
At this point, I’m resolved to buying a new TV (absolutely will NEVER buy another Samsung product) and destroying the DLP with a hammer to vent my frustrations. Actually, I’ve unplugged the PoS and and going to see if leaving it de-powered for a few days will help. If it comes back on, I’m going to leave it on 24/7 again until the lamp blows.
Any class action litigation against Samsung is something I want to be a part of. The best way to get results is to speak with our pocketbooks, let Samsung know that we will never buy ANY of their products again and then follow up on that promise.
Include me for any class action lawsuit: firstname.lastname@example.org
I have a Samsung DLP. It has a problem starting up. I took the whole tv apart.Tested mostly everything. To me now it almost sounds like a broken solder joint or lose. Some of you said you brought it to a technician and it worked perfectly. Lose solder joints would do just that. Just now I moved me tve by picking it up and off the Entertainment center and placing on the floor …IT WORKED! SO i am going to take it apart again and check every solder joint. Resolder everything. And also while I am there I will check the safety switch. I will keep y’all updated
This just hapened to me. This is ridiculous.
I have a HL61A750A1F Samsung DLP that is only about 3 years old and just stopped working the other day. Screen went black and led light began blinking then all 3 lights would start blinking as tv apparently went into protection mode. Called Samsung several times and was told it was an issue with the lamp only to be told by the people at J&J (their parts supplier) that this model does not use a lamp but an led system that would cost me around 700 dollars. Called Samsung back and was told to call a local repairman. So now im in the position of having to pay some guy to come out and look at my tv so he can order me a part that might cost as much as 700 hundred dollars on top of whatever he is going to charge in labor. For that much money i could have bought a brand new tv on black friday. Since I am currently unemployed i dont have the money for that so I guess I am stuck watching my little Sony television that is about 15 years old and still working fine. I am going to try and get Samsungs help with this issue but from reading other posts I am not optimistic. If they wont help me out i am going to be spending my large amount of free time posting negative reviews on various websites and I plan on calling the retailer i bought it from to tell them that they are selling what amounts to a big plastic pile of sh*t.
I too would love to join in a class action lawsuit, i have been replacing all the same parts as everybody else and no light! Very expensive!
Hey i have the exact same tv and replaced the color wheel with a new air bearing wheel and changed all the settings and the tv was working great for several days then i was watching a dvd one night and then turned it off. the next morning all it does is flash the lamp signal on the front. so i replaced the lamp but i still have the same problem . I checked voltage to the board and had 320v dc but still nothing and i dont think the color wheel is even spinning just the fans. I was hoping maybe you might could help thanks
Thanks to all of you!
I’ll quit while I’m ahead,
My DLP TV – Samsung HLR4667W 46-Inch Widescreen HDTV turns off after being on for maybe 20-30 mins.
then it may or may not come back on for days, those lights act like its going to turn on but they just turn off again,
This is a old blog and the info may be outdated. I suggest heading over to our forum and seeing if the experts can help you there. http://www.fixyourdlp.com/forum/
I’ve sent your problem to our expert moderator and see if he can come up with something to help you out. Sorry for your frustration!
Put a new dlp chip in my 57″ Toshiba because it have white dots and it work fine but now it won’t stay on and I get a flashing red light
Have you checked the connections to the projector lamp? They may have become lose during the chip installation. You may also need a new lamp. That flashing red light is an end of lamp life warning.