WD-52531 Issue after Lamp replacement.

[Divenbomb]

So my lamp imploded about a month ago and I replaced it with a Philips P22 120/132W and used Fixyourdlp.com guides to get it installed. It worked great for the few weeks that it did, I no longer had to have brightness and contrast maxed to get something out of the screen. Yesterday though I turned it on and it goes green light for about 5 seconds then goes red light. I left it alone for a while and then decided to check the bulb again. Bulb was still fine so i tried turning it on and walla, picture again. Used it for several hours yesterday with no issues. Now I turn it on again and I'm having the same issue I had before, I can hear the fans kick on and a clicking noise in the back. The clicking noise comes and goes about 3 times before the TV gives up and gives me the red light. I've read it might be the ballast or the color wheel. Either way I can't tell which is the issue, where to get the parts (I checked all parts for the tv, it's not listed) and how much they cost. Is it possible I got the wrong bulb and it's drawing too much power? I don't know, if someone could help me I would really appreciate it.

[Divenbomb]

Update: After about 10 tries I have been able to get it to come on again. It seems to be working fine, but I know once I turn it off I probably will not be able to get it to come back on without trying again.

[Divenbomb]

It's slowly deteriorated down to not wanting to come on after my last post. When it came on I could run it however long I wanted and it didn't do anything erratic. I took off the back panel and looked around, there was very little dust and the lamp was still looking good. I am going to take it to a repair place next week sometime, I hope they don't blame the issue on the non-manufacturers bulb... because that's probably not the issue, but it's an easy scapegoat for anyone trying to get money out of you... sigh...

[Divenbomb]

I had the tv looked at, and it turns out the ballast was the issue. He wanted to repair the ballast and put in an original OEM bulb but I just had him fix the ballast. When I got home the TV came on immediately but today I find it's exibiting the same issues as before. Now I'm not sure what to do, the ballast repair cost me $100 and an OEM bulb is like $250.

[Crowell]

Hmmmm, Mitsubishi TV’s have a reputation of swollen capacitors on the video board, have you check them physically?
If the capacitors have a round top instead of a flat one, then you need to replace them, otherwise you will have to buy a new board.

[ovadoggvo]

Divenbomb,
I apologize for the late help! What it sounds like is a "weak" ballast issue. Since the Philips Lamp is brand new, your weak ballast requires the full Lamp Consumption Voltage of 132W to operate. As the lamp has more use, the mercury level in the gas chamber is reduced, hence the Lamp Consumption Voltage is reduced.

I.E.:
132W lamp - Used for 2000 hours may consume 123 watts

132W lamp - Used for 200 hours may consume 131 watts

Please do not attempt to measure this with a multimeter! You will damage your multimeter because these lamps generally have a "Firing Voltage" of 15,000-20,000VAC!

So now... If you have a weak ballast, the ballast may light your lamp that has 3000 hours of use easily... however, it may not light up your brand new "Philips" lamp. Many people call their vendor and blame the lamp, when the reality is that the ballast of the Television is weak and should be replaced IN MOST CASES.

Disclaimer:
Keep in my, my recommendations may not be accurate so don't hold me accountable for anything! My recommendations are based on my experience and the information you guys tell me. So if the information you give me is not complete and accurate, my recommendations may not be complete or accurate.

[cheeto81]

I have the same problem described above...anyone know what capacitor is used on the ballast board for Mitsubishi WD-53237? (ballast p/n 939B978010) my TV is on right now (by luck)..if i turn it off, it won't go back on...But i don't think i should pull apart the back to get the capacitor P/N of the ballast while the TV is on...and i don't want to turn it off till i have a replacement part in hand (either capacitor or ballast)

I tried finding the capacitor p/n from the service manual, but that thing is not easy to read

anyone have any luck desoldering and replacing the capacitor?

Thanks

[davlynsum]

Recently my WD-53530 went blank and I replaced the bulb. That worked fine for 30 days or so. Now the picture is dark, although you can still see it. What is my next move?