Samsung DLP Help!

[ovadoggvo]

Drew,
First step for you would be to pick up a Digital Board from D-M to see if that resolves the issue. It may also be the analog board but the digital board carries the DNIe chip.. All your analog and digital signals go through the digital board and are converted to digital before produced onto the screen.

[Drew]

Thanks Ovadoggvo, I will try and find it at D-M, Just put in my Model # and Digital Board and that should bring up the part??? Again Thank you very Much!!!!!!!!!! I owe you a few berrs if you are ever in Hollywood Fla let me know!! Thanks, Drew

[Drew]

Ovadoggvo, I went on D-M and put in the model # and it brings up 2 boards first one is BN41-00237A for 69.99 and the second one is BP41-0023A and its 24.99, Would you know which one I need or do I need to look at the one inside my TV and get that part #?? Thanks Drew

[ovadoggvo]

Drew,
Those are both the same, I dont' kwow why the price is so different. Either one will work.

[Drew]

To ALL Unhappy Samsung Owners.I have contacted a Lawyer about starting
a Class Action Lawsuit against Samsung for Defective Parts, Panasonic
had one and they lost there case for defective Parts Google it you can
see about it. But by reading all the posts here and on Many Many More
sites, It seems over 80% of us have the same problems with are Samsung
DLP TV's and now finding out that the parts are no longer available
after less then 3 years is a Problem this is just an FYI if they take
the case I am sure that many of you will want to get it on the suit, I
will keep you posted if you are interested

[ovadoggvo]

Drew,
I'm glad you're taking action. This is why I was so excited about the parts on D-M that I started posting everywhere about them... Now I kinda regret it because I am having trouble finding parts that I myself need in stock. But I'm glad I could help people out so I guess it's a sacrifice I had to take.

Let us know how it goes.

[wbraun]

ovadoggvo,

So I've read through about 3 forums and the problem I'm having is not in the norm. I have an intermittent issue with my Samsung HLT6187S which is only 1.5 yrs old. At about 6 months, I had this issue for 2 days but it resolved itself, same thing at about 10 months. This is the third time and its getting annoying.

My tv loses the whole picture...and then gets it back. It usually starts with full screen flickering (flicker because it loses screen and gets it back many times in a second) but it eventually becomes longer intervals until eventually, the screen stays black. Sometimes when flickering rapidly, the color is off. The only input tested is the HDMI1 as I have a receiver hooked up. Now once it goes black, it dont come back :lol: but if I wait a few minutes, I can usually get the picture back by turning the tv off and then on again. Then the flickering will start a few minutes later. Repeat, lather and rinse. Then like magic, it will stop and everything is great...sometimes for months. Is it the flu?

My hope is that some connection is getting hot and causing a short in an easily replaceable cable. What do you think?

P.S. - Many thanks to ovadoggvo for his hard work in this and the other forums.

[ovadoggvo]

wbraun,
I would try a new HDMI cable (make sure it's the latest version)... Many people don't know but HDMI has multiple versions and older samsung TV's are really picky about the version of the cable and component being hooked up (they must match).. You have the HLT series TV and it should be able to handle the latest HDMI versions and all versions prior. Your cable may be mis-matched.

A few questions, when you lose picture... do you have audio? If no, then the cable may be bad.

Does it happend on other HDMI inputs using a different cable? Do you have audio when this happens? If yes to both of these questions, then the lamp could be intermittent.... If yes to the first question and no to the second question, then the DMD board may be failing and you should have called the manufacturer the very first time this happened. Even if they come out and tell you that nothing is wrong, you have that in your record that you were experiencing problems prior to the warranty's end. 1.5 years are here and you are out of warranty for about 6 months... IF your DMD board is bad, it will cost you some work and lots of money.. unless D-M has it in stock.

Let us know how it goes!

[wbraun]

ovadoggvo,

I tried some more tests and here is what I got. I do NOT lose audio when the screen goes out. It does crap out on the other HDMI inputs. It ALSO craps out on the PC input! I used two different HDMI cables and obviously a PC video cable. I tried one test where I hooked up the tv straight to the xbox with the HDMI cable that came with the xbox and considering my HLT should handle any version of HDMI cable, I think it eliminated the possibility of a componnent/cable mismatch.

Having done all this, I would conclude based on your previous post that my lamp is intermittent. Do you agree?

I also read here that my set doesn't have a lamp or a color wheel and instead has 3 LED's. If this true, do I have to replace the LED's instead?

Thanks again.

[samsux]

Unlucky owner of HLR5667, purchased 9/06, two days ago these pink and white lines, or green plaid appeared. I was able to clear them buy unplugging the set, but they returned later. Unplug...cleared, several times. At the moment, the picture is clear. Question is, what do I need to be putting on order? Thank you!

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samsux1-sm.jpg (14.8 KiB) Viewed 3737769 times

[Jauxter]

[ovadoggvo]

wbraun,
What is the model on your TV? If your TV is an LED projection, then it's a different story... There is no Lamp or Color Wheel, instead it uses a 3 Phlatlight system from Delta Electronics. The LED's do fail, but not all of them and it is not easy to replace. It is similar to the 3 LCD engine of Sony, however, instead of 1 lightsource going through RGB LCD's, you have 3 light sources (3 x Phlatlight LED in Red Green and Blue)!

In this case, there are other boards that fail and they are a bit more difficult to diagnose and repair. They were made with a 20,000hr light source expectency but the technology is faulty and the LED's do fail before 20,000

[ovadoggvo]

samsux,
Press menu and see if the menu is over or under the scrambled video.

Next, test HDMI and VGA input.. Do you still get the lines? Next test Picture in Picture... what are the results?

If PIP works and VGA works.. then your Digital Board is at fault. I would check Discount-Merchant.com for that one.. PartStore and Samsung costs way too much!

[ovadoggvo]

jauxter,
Even though it's way too late for me to think clearly here is my two cents:

The Fan for the lamp does not turn on immediately. It will wait until the temperature starts to rise. There is a temperature sensor inside the TV that lookes like this:

http://www.discount-merchant.com/Search ... ure+sensor

BTW.. Cleopatra Samsung's are very very nice sets. I havent seen anything as nice ever in the market.

[rocko918]

I recently bought a used HLR5667W on ebay. Drove hour and half to pick it up. Seller showed me it worked with a dvd hook up via componet. So i assumed it was all good. He was a good guy, i had no reason not to think it would not work. Got it home and pluged in the cable. nothing but a green screen, some horizontal lines, then some vertical ones. Sounds was fine. I then hooked up my xbox 360 with the hdmi cable and it was sweet. So i read a few places that it could be the analog board but there is no example of anyone fixing it. Does this sound right? Anyone have experience with this? I have talked to the seller and he has been helpful. He said bring it back and he would look at it and if he could not fix it he would refund my money. Which is very cool, But i don't want to drive another 3 hours return it. SO do you think i can replace the board? Should i just return it or can it be fixed?

[peske]

I have a problem and was wondering if anyone had any guidance/suggestions. About six months ago, while watching TV, it just shut off. All three lights (TIMER, LAMP, STADBY/TEMP) in the power button started blinking, and the ballast clicked and the TV started back up. This time making sort of a vacuum cleaner noise as it started up, and then a whistling noise as it winded back down. This repeated - it kept trying to start up, then would shut down, until it stopped after 4-5 tries. I unplugged the TV for five minutes and turned it on and everything was fine.

Then it happened again days later. And again. Slowly but surely the problem increased in frequency, and now I can't watch TV for five minutes without it shutting off and doing its routine.

Bad temperature sensor? Bad color wheel? I've got a Samsung DLP HLP4663W like everyone else...I'd rather order something from discount warehouse and do it myself than have expensive service performed (TV is 4 yrs old and off warranty).

Regards,
Philip

[edouble]

ovadoggvo,

First of all...this is awesome. What you're doing here is fantastic. You've posted a wealth of knowledge here.

Now for my problem.

I have a Samsung HLP4663WX/XAA that has a greenish glow and a pulsing picture with some minor shadowing. It sat in storage for 3 years shortly after purchase because the owner went out of town. Came back, unpacked it and the picture is crap now. I've run through your initial instructions to diagnose the DMD board and DNIe with the test patterns. I'm not sure if it is because the TV is older but the test pattern for the DDP1011 only shows the numbers 0-14 in a small box on the screen. When I scroll through the numbers or attempt to select them they don't have any effect on the display. Does this mean the DMD board is bad and I should look for a new light engine? If so, any suggestions on part numbers or where to look for it? Additionally I ran the test pattern for the DNIe and it looked fine (aside from the original flicker that was already there).

I did consider purchasing a bulb but don't want this to turn into a money pit. I'd hate to drop $100 on a bulb to find out it is a problem with the DMD/light engine and either drop the $400+ to replace it (if I can find one) or scrap the thing all together.

Your thoughts are appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[bigdz]

I have a Samsung HLN617WX/XAA DLP TV. For about the past month, after startup the TV has either 1) gone blank with no picture or 2) freeze with a scattered set of white pixels. The frozen images of white pixels changes to whatever is displayed last (actually, its not completely frozen, if I stare long enough, I see pixels change state, either to black or white).

Here's an example of a "frozen" state:

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I've tested this with DVI input and an analog input antenna-a. When it does go blank/frozen, I still get sound. I also get no blinking light indication of an issue. The power button on the remote does work to allow me to turn it off. I can change analog channels, change volume but no display works, i.e. menu, tv/video, pip, etc.

I've taken the back cover off and have verified that all 3 fans are working, the lamp is working and have used an C02 can to clear out any dust build-up.

[ejr]

photo.jpg (135.83 KiB) Viewed 3737634 times

Wow, this forum seems to be the place to actually receive some sound advice!! Thank You. We own a Samsung 50" DLP model # and my husband is ready to buy it's replacement but I wanted to see if I could fix it. I am highly tech challenged (so any advice needs to be in simple terms, please!). While in normal digital cable, the screen shows green and blue vertical lines and the picture is just pulsing. All HD channels are PERFECT! When pressing the MENU button, the MENU is perfect (on top of the vertical drama going on). Sometimes, it will just turn off just because. Again, I am not tech savvy at all. Please advise. Thank You greatly.

[rbsmith6]

I replaced the color wheel on my HLP4663. No my color are all messed up - maybe reversed. How do I find the jumper to correct this?

[edouble]

rbsmith6

http://www.jangro.com/electronics/samsu ... lor-wheel/

check out the update below step 17.

[rbsmith6]

Never mind. The jumper is not on the color wheel. It is in the small square hole below the yellow and white sticker an can be removed through the light cover access with needle nosed pliers, without taking the entire back off.

[peske]

[ejr]

Okay, so I did more research and kept coming across cord issues - one being HDMI cord. I looked around the tv and noticed the HDMI cord was running from the cable box to the receiver. I unplugged it from the receiver and put it straight into the TV and it is now fixed. I don't understand it at all, but I am happy it is fixed (for now). Maybe this simple solution will help some frustrated soul out there.

[pjhauser]

I've got an odd thing happening with my HLN5065W. I started to get the 3 blinking lights and finally tracked it back to my DMD board. It was no longer firing the color wheel at startup. So I found a used DMD board off of ebay and replaced it. It worked great for about 3 weeks but then I started getting the same problem.

What's really strange is that for both the old and the new DMD boards, I can get it to temporarily work for several hours by pulling the upper right corner of the board (as viewed from the back) toward the back of the TV. Not hard, but enough to flex it a bit, and then turn the TV on again. Why did I even try this the first time? Because while trying other fixes to my original problem, including replacing the lamp, ballast, and color wheel, I noticed a correalation between the TV working and any sort of fiddling with the DMD board.

I tried reseating all of the connectors on the board, but that didn't help. It's only when I flex the board that it starts working for awhile. I believe that there is a bad solder joint on one of the chips on the board, or possibly the DLP chip isn't seated. I tried reseating the DLP chip on the first board and that didn't help, but I'll try it on the 2nd one. I think it is very strange that both boards are behaving this same way. Perhaps there was a bad production run. (my light engine and the one I got the used DMD board from were manufactured within months of each other). I did see a post on another forum where someone was actually messing with resoldering some of the ICs on this board, but after looking at how small the contacts are I don't know if I want to attempt that.

Anyway, not really expecting a solution, but just curious if anyone else has had something like this. I couldn't get a new board from samsung (at the time I didn't know about http://www.discount-merchant.com) which is why I replaced it with a used one. I may try to find a new one but I've already sunk $200 into it and am thinking of just scrapping the thing.

5-12-09 FOLLOWUP:

I've narrowed down the problem on BOTH boards to IC119 toward the bottom of the DMD board. I believe this is a memory chip that has the software the board uses to run. This chip on my older board has a sticker with a date of 2002-07-18 and a code of V2 (version 2?) while the newer board has a date of 2003-06-04 with a code of V6 (version 6?). In both cases I was able to get the board to work by applying pressure to this chip prior to powerup. I just used a pencil with a soft erasor to do this. I'm guessing there's a cold solder joint on one or more of the pins and applying the pressure temporarily corrects it. On the older board I put pressure on the middle of the chip and on the newer board I had to put it on the right side only.

Earlier in this post I described flexing the board to get it to work. Well, figuring that the flexing was helping a connection somewhere I decided to start poking the chips individually to see if I could narrow it down to one. At first I was surprised that it turned out to be the same chip on both boards but after thinking about it it makes sense. On the older board especially, it appears that this chip was manually soldered on while the other chips on the board appear to have been done by an automated process. You can definitely see solder flux all around the chip and it's not as neat as the other chips (see attached photos). I'm guessing they manufactured the board in a large run ahead of time and then added this software chip at the last minute so it would be the most current. The newer board appears to be more neatly done but it still may have been put on after the others. At this point both boards are working so I'm going to just pick one and go with it for awhile. If it goes out again I will try applying pressure to individual pins to narrow it down further. I may then attempt to resolder the pins, but I can barely see them even with strong magnification, so that may be tricky. (Plus I would need a new soldering iron as my current one is meant for much larger work). Another option is to wedge something between the chip and the metal cover to apply pressure continuously to the chip, but that would be sort of a hack job.

In any case, I wanted to share this in case it's of any use to anyone. At this point the DMD board for the HLN5065W is difficult to find, so you may be able to salvage your existing board if you happen to have this same issue. The fact that I had this on two boards at random makes me think it may actually be a fairly common issue that is not being diagnosed because it just easier to replace the board. (And had a new part been available, that's exactly all I would have done. I don't want to say how many hours I've spent messing with this dumb thing!)

[peske]

[Marie]

I'm so frustrated!!!!! :evil:

I have a Samsung HLN-5065WX 50" purchased 2004

Started with loud noise, getting louder, with your help
replaced the color wheel, REALLY proud of myself, good for only 2 days

then the lamp went out, it's been 5 years, 10,000 hours ok replaced the lamp, even though it just went no fading of picture quality, good for the evening the next day nothing.

a little research tried the lamp-ballast
hey the tv works again, the next day oh it doesn't AGAIN.

when I power up there is no light in the back, all fans are working the lamp light and temp light flash, the TV revs up then down trying to turn on for about an minute, the only way to turn it off is to unplug it.

I've now spent $500 Canadian on parts, $60 on delivery charges and three weeks of my frustrated time working and waiting for parts to be delivered and I don't even know if any of these parts were bad

WHAT DO I DO NOW?????? :o

I've cleaned all three fans and they are all working properly.

Is it possible the the ballast I replaced worked only for the evening and is defective??

[mgreen200]

I have a HLR5078w that needs a new DMD board. I have already bought another tv. If anyone needs any parts I will make you a good deal on them.. It has a new lamp, the color wheel is good the digital board, analog board, balast and remote also are ok. I also have a service manual and a new light tunnel... thanks

[rage]

My tv was on and working fine. Suddenly, I heard a noise like something dropping. The color was gone, and lines went across the tv. There was a noise akin to an outboard motor, or something. The noise wasn't high-pitched at all, nor would I call it a whine. In a panic, I turned the tv off and assumed it was the lamp, which had been replaced last year. I took the lamp out and looked at it. It appears to be intact. After reading these problems, I believe the color wheel is the problem. I tried the tv one more time to make sure. This time, there was no picture at all and the loud motor-like noise continued.

Color wheel, right?

[toshmi]

On the DMD board (AA41-00694E) for my HLN507WX there is a 3-pin socket next to the 4-pin socket which is being utilized for the color wheel. That 3-pin socket is not being used...does anyone know what it is? Could it be used for the color wheel using some sort of 4 to 3-pin "converter" (since there are only 3 wires...2 whites & a blue...to the 4-pin)? thank you...

[120inna55]

I have an HLS6187W.

This has been an ongoing issue but it's recently gotten worse. I hope someone here can help.

My set flickers. Period. That's it.

The image is not interrupted, there is just a very annoying flicker of brightness level that sometimes lasts anywhere from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, then the flickering goes away just as suddenly as it starts. Today it's happening very frequently. It seems to happen less the longer the set is on.

When this has happenend in the past, I've replaced the lamp and all would be good for about 3 months then it starts up again. It may not happen for several weeks.

I've essentially replaced the lamp about every 6-8 months to avoid the problem, but I know it's not the lamp. It's not even associated with a dim lamp.

It has the same characteristics of a standard flourescent bulb that is going bad. You know, like the annoying flicker of those overhead floursecent lamps.

The set is on a good quality UPS with power conditioner. It has also done this directly plugged into the wall. Reseating the lamp doesn't help either. The only thing that seem to help is putting in a new lamp, but that only lasts about 3 months before the flickering begins to start back up.

What could this be? Ballast maybe?

[bhchan]

ovadoggvo, you're my only hope!

so I hope you're still reading this topic/thread.

In the past couple of days, I've noticed the following on my HL-R5067W (6664h on the bulb)

1) everything is fine on the PC input, except for a slight 'pulsing' in the intensity of the screen. (I'm thinking refresh rate perhaps)

2) Whirring sound, as if a fan is dead/dying/winding down - this happens on shutting down the TV.

3) on all the component inputs, every now and then, the screen flickers. sound remains stable, but the screen will shake/shiver/jittery/jump. it's not often, but once in a while.

4) in the last day, instead of just shake/shiver/jitter/jump,l the screen will now complete flicker to the point where the whole image goes offscreen, rather than just 'a couple of lines'.

I've gone into the service menu and noticed the follwoing:

All the test patterns are showing up great... in one of them (226 test pattern), you can see the component input as the menu's background.. as i was going through the test patterns, i could see the input flickering while the test pattern remiained solid/stable.


Since the problem seems to be on the 'analog' inputs (component 1 and 2, but not PC) I'm guessing something in the analog realm has gone amiss, as well as a dying fan. Can you point me to how to replace/check thosetwo, if my diagnosis is right? if not, point me tothe right direction?


I'm guessing the color wheel is ok, since all test patterns show the correct color.


Thanks in advance!

[BigTunaCan]

Ovadoggvo, or anyone that can send me down the right path;

So, about 6 months ago my DLP (hlp4663w/xaa) started taking for ever to turn on and off. Well a few days pass and one morning I go to turn it on and I heard a pop, so I figured it was the lamp. I opened the back and pulled the lamp out and noticed there was small chunks of glass so I figured the lamp went out. Well I recently decided to replace the lamp. Once I put the new lamp in and went to turn it on I would get the red stand by, but once I tried to turn it on all I would get is a blinking "Stand by/Temp, Lamp." So at that point I turned to a local TV repair shop which told me my ballast was bad, they wanted a arm and leg to repair it so I did research and found part #bp9600690a which according to my research should be oem replacement. Well after I had replaced that part I tried turning it on and still nothing same blinking lights. Not sure what to try or do now, dont want to pay a repair shop again to look at it unless its absolutely necessary.

edit: asked the repair shop about the color wheel and they told me there was no problem with my wheel. I never heard the noise most ppl hear when the wheel is going out so leads me to believe the shop.

Thanks ahead of time.

[Angel]

[Angel]

[BigTunaCan]

Well... as for the ballast its been changed with a new one, but you said theres a switch for the back cover, I know I put it back together properly but there is a blue looking switch that looks broken right by the lamp cover, could that be my problem and if so where can I buy a replacement?

Thanks again for the prompt reply.

[Angel]

Actually the ballast suggestion was for someone else :lol:

Yes, definitely that switch could be the problem, you can find it here:


Hope this solve your problem.

[BigTunaCan]

Wow prompt reply again, They don't have my TV model number listed any suggestions as to a part number? I would check but not at home. My TV model is Hlp4663w/xaa

Thanks again

[Angel]

Well, as you can see in that link, the same part number is used in a lot of TV models, so it's possible that one of them is the one for yours, my recommendation is to take out the switch and look for the part number on it.

[BigTunaCan]

Hey I found the model number but there not in stock but found someone local who sel it but for a arm and leg but was also told gay you can bypass that switch but they would not tell me how. Anyone can guide me how to do it?

[Angel]

What is your part number?

[BigTunaCan]

Model hlm507w aa41-00756c chassis: l62a

[Angel]

Actually there are a lot of them, for example this one: .

[BigTunaCan]

Alright cool thanks man. but is it true that you can bypas the switch gets boring on a small 20

[bhchan]

[chaza]

I have a Samsung hls4266w and the lighting is very dim. I found out how to replace the light bulb in the casing on youtube but how do you get to the light bulb casing? I took off the backing but was unsure how to get to the light bulb casing. Can anyone help?

Thanks,

Chaza

[BigTunaCan]

[Angel]

[Denbo]

I have a HL-R5067W which powers up, color wheel spins and lamp is lite. The picture is black, then after a minute or two shuts down, no blinks leds.
In the Service Manual it states the color wheel timing (CN502 pin 2) = 180 Hz, I have 90 Hz, also states Allegro Clock (DIO18)=8.33MHz? I have 12 MHz (ic704 pin 16). If I pull the connector of CN502 the unit fails with three blinking leds and lamp does not light.
So I am thinking I have a out dated service manual. If so then the LAMP_TX from the Digital board does not pulse at 180Hz (CN504 pin 1) when lamplitz goes low. Voltage reset clock look ok.

So it appears the digital board is bad?

[Denbo]