Samsung DLP Lamp Compatibility Reference
*PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS ARTICLE IS OUTDATED AND HAS BEEN EDITED. THE PHILIPS LAMP ADAPTER IS NO LONGER NEEDED SINCE ALL PHILIPS LAMPS HAVE BEEN UPGRADED TO MEET THE RELIABILITY STANDARDS AND STOCK DEMANDS OF TODAY’S USE!
Samsung has a lot of DLP customers confused… here is a little background:
Samsung originally used Toshiba as their UHP Lamp supplier. Samsung went through a few production runs and then made the decision to switch to Philips UHP Lamps. Why they made the switch is speculation…Higher quality? Better reputation? Better pricing? Who knows! One thing that is clear: Philips is the innovator of UHP lamps. They are also leaders in R&D in this growing technology. Samsung did it’s homework and went with the leader in the industry (good job Samsung)!
So Samsung originally came out with BP96-00224A which was a Toshiba Lamp. This was later replaced with the BP96-00224C which was a Philips Lamp. Here is a picture below showing the only physically apparent difference between the lamp enclosures.
Don’t pay too much attention to the shape of the enclosure as there are a few variations of each. More importantly are the connectors and their shapes and colors. The Toshiba connectors are more of a rectangular design and they are BROWN while the Philips lamps have a more rounded connector and are BLACK. Physically the lamps are essentially the same size but they are not interchangeable. I will post another entry showing the differences in the lamps themselves. Here are two pictures of the Samsung lamp:
If you replace a Toshiba lamp with a Philips you will need to change the ballast as well…otherwise you could burn the ballast, lamp, or both!
So which lamp is compatible with which TV?
Wait a minute… there is also a NEWER Design lamp out there!
The newer designed lamp is made by Philips and it is compatible as a replacement for ALL Samsung TVs that use the Philips Lamps. If you have a “Big” Philips lamp (like the one pictured above), you will need the Philips Lamp Adapter to use the newest “Small” Philips lamps, click here for more information about the adapter. Anyway, here is a picture of the latest model Lamp only:
But this is a much smaller lamp than the one in my TV…are you sure it is compatible?
As UHP Lamp technology evolves, these lamps are going to get smaller and more luminous. These newer lamps are 100W/120W lamps and use the same energy as the older lamps, yet their compact and modern design is another benefit to the extended life Philips claims.
I’m still confused, do you have a simple way for me to distinguish which type of lamp I have and what my replacement options are?
The simple answer is YES, but a YES with an exception. Samsung screwed up big time with the production of their DLPs. I don’t know of any other manufacturer who has gone through so many lamp changes!
First Step: Locate the lamp code on the right side of your TV (right side of the TV as if you are watching TV). Typically there is a RED and WHITE sticker that looks like this:
The “(P)” in the lamp code stands for Philips. If your lamp code has a “(T)” that means the lamp manufacturer is Toshiba… which also means you have one of the first generation TVs Samsung manufactured! This is a bad thing considering you will need to change your ballast if you want to use the more readily available Philips “Big” lamps or the newer Philips “Small” Lamps.
To CLARIFY again,
Step 1: figure out who manufactured your lamp: Philips or Toshiba.
Step 2: If you have a Philips (P) Lamp, and the lamp code the starts with BP96-00224, then that means you should have a “Big” Philips lamp inside your TV, one of these:
If you have a Philips (P) and the Lamp Code starts with BP96-006, BP96-008, BP96-01, that usually means you have a “Small” Philips lamp, like this:
But we’ve seen cases where this is not true! The safest and recommended way to go about it is to physically remove the lamp enclosure to inspect the lamp. There should also be another Lamp Code sticker on the side of the enclosure… often times this lamp code is different from the lamp code on the outside of the TVs (go figure…)! To avoid problems, take 5 minutes and check the lamp type!
If you have a “Big” Philips lamp, purchase the original, OEM, Philips lamp available from Discount-Merchant.com.
If you have a “Small” Philips lamp, your best bet is to purchase an original replacement lamp. OEM lamps are available here. Our partner site, Discount-Merchant.com has made it clear that they are the lowest price anywhere for original lamps. If you find a better price, let us know and we will have Discount-Merchant.com beat it 😉
*PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS ARTICLE IS OUTDATED AND HAS BEEN EDITED. THE PHILIPS LAMP ADAPTER IS NO LONGER NEEDED SINCE ALL PHILIPS LAMPS HAVE BEEN UPGRADED TO MEET THE RELIABILITY STANDARDS AND STOCK DEMANDS OF TODAY’S USE!
I have a confusing situation on my hands. I was given an HLN437W that had a burned out lamp.
The tag on the side of the TV says BP96-00224A(T) which would indicate a Toshiba Lamp.
The actual lamp casing (metal part) has a tag that says Philips 100W BP96-00224C on the back. This would say Philips.
The connector however is the connector shown about for the Toshiba lamp.
So I seem to have a Philips lamp and a Toshiba connector.
It does not appear as though the lamp enclosure was disassembled and a different lamp used but I cannot be sure. I was looking for tool marks. Didn’t see any.
I am wondering if
a) Toshiba had a run of lamps with Philps lamps and the old connector. In which case I need a Philips lamp and the ballast is right for Philips.
b) Someone replaced the lamp in the Toshiba enclosure with a Philips lamp. In which case the ballast may or may not have been changed.
I conclude that I need to know what ballast I have in the TV to decide on what lamp I need. I am confident I can change the lamp in the enclosure but I don’t know where to find the ballast.
Where do I find the ballast? Which ballast goes with which lamp? Also how much is the ballast? If I have the Toshiba lamp and ballast I may want to change both to Philips.
Thanks Dave Anderson 408.391.2002
More data from Dave Anderson
The ballast in the TV is:
HIB Electronic Ballast
Input: 220-410v DC
Is this for the Philips or the Toshiba lamp?
Can it be changed to Philips if I want to do so?
You got a mess on your hands 😉 But it’s okay…it’s actually not so bad.
a) I think what you meant to ask was if “Samsung” had a production run with Philips Lamps and the Toshiba Connector. To our knowledge, we don’t think so and we’ve never see this.
b) This is a possibility, very common mistake, and it’s very easy to verify. Just dissemble the lamp enclosure; both Toshiba and Philips have their markings on back of their lamps. This could have very easily been overlooked by a tech and diagnosed as a bad Ballast or even a bad Engine.
Dave, I would first try to figure out which lamp you have inside the enclosure. If you have the wrong lamp, the TV may work for a few seconds or a few minutes…or not at all. There is an adjustment in the service menu to lets the bios know which lamp is installed or should be installed (you can flip through Toshiba and Philips) but that wouldn’t do anything for you either. Philips lamp with the Philips Driver (Ballast) and Toshiba Lamp with Toshiba Driver (Ballast) is the only way it’s going to work (we’re not talking about Osram lamps so I’m not going to get into those).
I wouldn’t recommend going out of your way to replace the Ballast unless it was bad. Just get the Toshiba lamp if you need it or vice versa.
Let us know what’s actually in there and we will go from there.
Some part Numbers for your referece:
Philips Ballast: BP47-00008A (100P/H00,100W)
Toshiba Ballast: AA47-00008A (0.33A,100W,370V)
These should be in stock if you need them.
I don’t see anything in our database with that part number. My resources with Samsung are limited until the morning, so I will have more information for you then. Can you post a few pictures for reference?
IF you have a Toshiba Ballast, you can always convert it to the Philips setup. In the even that you have an Osram setup, you should be able to use that same ballast for Philips lamps.
Sorry to have gone silent. I thought I would get the reply by email. I will know to look at this site.
The lamp in the TV is a Philips lamp. I believe it was installed by disassembling the Samsung lamp carrier and putting the Philips lamp in. I conclude that since the connector is the square Toshiba connector.
I suspect I just need a Toshiba lamp but I would like to confirm the ballast.
When you say “Ballast” are you referring to the driver board with the heat sink and grouped power transitors? I was referring to the output transformer on the board when I listed the numbers.
If it is the board, where on the board is the part number? Do I need to remove the board to find the part number? I am ok with that but I never like to touch something that doesn’t have to be touched.
Thanks, dave 408.391.2002
I just received my lamp for my samsung dlp several days ago. I installed the lamp and it worked for a day. Now it’s not working again. It’s not the same error message (not the face) It just flashes the power red line and the green rightside lamp light? Do you have ideas? Is it a Ballast I need?
I ordered part # bp69-00089b
No need to reply. I’m good don’t worry about it….. Just have to tighten the screw all the way in when replacing the back plate. Holds the switch down??
Do the “smaller Lamps” have a longer life span than the “big lamps”? My original OEM lamp just went out, after 2.5 years, and this is my first endeavour with replacements. The $144 price is for the lamp and adapter correct?
Thanks in advance for the info.
Samsung Model# HLP4674
If you do not screw in your lamp in tight, the connectors will not make contact, hence, you will continuing seeing the blinking lights.
1) the lamp NEEDS to be screwed in tightly
2) the enclosure COVER needs to be placed back on the TV and screwed back on. On the Samsungs, there’s usually a sensor associated with the enclosure door.
I’m glad you were able to troubleshoot your issue yourself! 🙂
The driver/ballast is the that PCB your square connector is attached to. Most likely you will have to remove it to find the model number. Feel free to post a picture online for review.
WOW! Damn these guys ship those lamps out fast! I just got off the phone with them and the darn thing is already here… Only $145 too.
Thanks for the link guys.. I’m highly satisfied with the service and the product discount-merchant.com!
I would recommend you guys to anyone that’s serious about getting there TV back up soon.
Usually http://www.Discount-Merchant.com/?Click=1466 ships the same day orders processed before 2 PM PST.
Yes, the smaller lamps for supposed to have long life as they are a newer, revised lamp. The small rectangular lamps are used in all new Samsung DLP models today. $144 is the price for the new lamp + Adapter!
Here is a link to your particular TV:
My DLP TV Lamp has gone bad. The code is BP96-01472A (P132W) does that mean the bulb or the whole housing?
The BP96-01472A lamp enclosure features a Philips 132 Watt Lamp. Discount-Merchant.com has these avaialble at a great price. They have both the lamp and enclosure, or if you’ll like to save $10, you can just purchase the lamp from them..
the lamp or lamp plus enclosure:
Their phone number is: 619-710-2637 x203 just in case..
I HAVE A RCA HD50LPW175XY1 TV.I STALLED THE NEW LAMP
IT DOEST’N WORK AND PUT IT BACK SEVERAL TIMES,I THOUG IT COULD BE THE LAMP BALLAST,SO I BUYED TOO.
MY TV DOEST’N ANYWAY!!!!! CAN YOU HELP MY?
Finally some good info on the Samsung DLP players (better than from Samsung!). Here’s my situation – hoping you can help:
My HLN617 outside lamp code is BP96-0024B (O) – it’s a green label – while the label on the lamp is OSRAM 120W P96-00224B. The lamp connector looks like the older Toshiba, but I’m hoping it’s the Philips. How would I find out which ballast this third party works with?
You’ve got a Osram lamp…Discount-Merchant.com has the replacement OSRAM lamp for you. Call them at: 619-710-2637 x207 and explain your situation. I think you can actually replace your OSRAM with a Philips without any problems…double check your lamp and look for a 1.0 or 1.3 after the 100w/120w on the lamp.
Guillermo, a common mistake people make is they forget to put the back cover back on their TV. The cover that gives you access to the lamp enclosure usually has a sensor associated with it. If this cover is not on, you’ll still get the blinking error…
I have a Samsung HL-R5067W that has a lamp code BP96-01073A(P) on the TV and lamp box. The bulb itself had what looks like (hard to read) UHP 100W/120W 1.0 Phillips and 000000875 stamped on it. We ordered a new bulb that had BP96-001073A as the part number, but the actual bulb looks like (again hard to read) it has OSRAM PVP 100-120OE22 stamped on it. Is the correct bulb for our TV. Nothing happened when this bulb was put into the TV and we still have all 3 lights flashing on the TV with no picture and all the screws have been put back in tight. If this is the correct bulb what else should we check?
I have a samsung dlp hln4365w. How do I know if the ballast is bad?
Replaced my lamp which was broke and it still does not turn on. Not sure where to go from here.
I have noticed a difference in the brightness of my Samsung HL-R5677W. I had to go up a little on the brightness adjustment. My question is, can the bulb still work and not be putting out optimum lumens or brightness?
Also my engine was replaced last year, is it a possibility that the engine it was replaced with is using a toshiba bulb, my tag indicates a Philips bulb. Is the ballast and engine an all in one replacement?
I have a HLN507WX DLP set, and the lamp has gone out. Checking the lamp, I found that it is a Toshiba lamp. Are these bulbs available?
I’m replacing the bulb in my Samsung HLR6168WX/XAA with the Philips BP96-01073A replacement bulb which I will order from Discount Merchant. The documentation indicates that this replacement bulb is 120W/132W. The Philips bulb I took out of my TV says UHP 100W/120W on it. This seems like a good thing to me since I always thought my TV was a little dim. Is the replacement bulb actually brighter or do I have it all wrong?
I would like to mention that the first generation HLM507WX Samy’s don’t except the BP47-00008A ballast. The smaller of the 2 plugs is originaly a 5 wire while the newer replacment ballast has a 3 wire plug. If your suppose to replace the ballast with a newer one which one is a direct replacement??
Help! The lamp code says BP96-00826A (P). Does this mean I need a small phillips lamp? I really need to order one today. Thanks
Dear fix your DLP folks:
I have an HLN617WX with 5040 hours on the bulb and everything still working.
the bulb that is in there is a: BP96-00224E(P)
My questions are:
1- will the bulb deminish in brightness with age (hours of use)?
2- is there realtime experience with bulb life?
3- is this original bulb the larger style?
4- has the life expectancy gotten better with this older style bulb?
Any help would be gratly appreciated
Question: Have HLN437W/XAA with older EUC100 ballast and old large phillips BP96-00224C(p) bulb. Is there any possibilities to upgrade ballast to EUC120 to then take advantage of P132W+adaptor over P120W+adaptor ?
CAN anyone tell me what the ballast does, just changed the bulb a month ago.took out a philips and put in an after market ormans? bulb.Of couse i found this site after i replaced the bulb. now the tv comes on and then shuts off and the timer light and lamp light and the stand by light come on I have a samsung HLP5063w 50″ Please Help if you can.
Hi, I replaced the Philips lamp (BP96-00224E(P) – 120W) on my Samsung TV (model #HLN617WX/XAA) – thanks to all the helpful instructions on this blog.
The replacement lamp is rated 120/132W, but my TV is not as bright as it used to be and it is not watchable in the day time:(
Any suggestions on what might be wrong?
Thanks in advance.
Sounds like either:
1) You’re ballast is tired…and time to replace it
2) You’ve somehow got a 100W ballast in your TV. Do you know where your ballast is and how to check for the wattage?
You’re better off staying with the P120W+Adapter. There is no easy way of converting your TV to accept the 132W lamp. You could swap out your ballast for a newer 132W version, but then your power supply is going to have to be replaced also. Your current power supply is not capable of producing enough “juice” for the new lamp.
Mark, sorry for the late reply.
If your Light Engine (LE) was replaced, 99% of the time it comes with the matching lamp and lamp driver as a complete unit…you should be fine in that aspect. So if it says Philips, you should have philips compatible parts all throughout.
Yes, the picture (brightness) will diminish with time, that is the nature of the DLP lamps. From my experience, the first 500 hours are a little excessive in brightness, and as the lamp burns in, the output goes to the rated wattage. At about 4,000-5,000, or just below the mean average life span of your particular lamp, they tend to start deteriorating. This is part of the design and function of the UHP lamps.
My suggestion to you and anyone else worried about lamp life…have a spare one on hand, you never know when these things are going to give up on you!
Tom, that is true…the newer bulb is going to be a better bulb for you 🙂
>Tom Bakken Says:
>November 23rd, 2007 at 10:03 am
>I’m replacing the bulb in my Samsung HLR6168WX/XAA with the Philips
>BP96-01073A replacement bulb which I will order from Discount Merchant.
>The documentation indicates that this replacement bulb is 120W/132W.
>The Philips bulb I took out of my TV says UHP 100W/120W on it. This
>seems like a good thing to me since I always thought my TV was a little
>dim. Is the replacement bulb actually brighter or do I have it all
My comments are inline.
>I have an HLN617WX with 5040 hours on the bulb and everything still
>the bulb that is in there is a: BP96-00224E(P)
It’s good that you’re thinking about a replacement lamp…5,000 hours is the average life span of the older, bigger, lamp.
>My questions are:
>1- will the bulb deminish in brightness with age (hours of use)?
Absolutely, these bulbs go out usually in one of two ways:
1) they blow up, usually imploding
2) The die slowly…and gradually…the picture might dim, it might take longer for the TV to turn on, and your TV might turn off by itself.
>2- is there realtime experience with bulb life?
Bulb life varies greatly…We’ve seen TVs with over 25,000 hours…on the other end, we’ve seen TVs with as little as 2,000 hours. There are a lot of factors at stake. Read this for more information.
>3- is this original bulb the larger style?
I would not suggest the original big style lamp. The newer, small lamps are rated to last longer. They are ventilated, etc…there are a number advantages that’s been talked about repeatedly on this site.
>4- has the life expectancy gotten better with this older style bulb?
Life expectancy has improved with better burners (or filaments), etc, etc…again, read the articles above!
>Any help would be gratly appreciated
No problem, Joe, let us know how things work out!
This is the part you’re looking for 🙂
>Steve Young Says:
>November 7th, 2007 at 3:51 am
>I have a HLN507WX DLP set, and the lamp has gone out. Checking the
>lamp, I found that it is a Toshiba lamp. Are these bulbs available?
I have a Samsung That when you turn it on some times the lamp comes on and some times it does not… The Lamp in it is a BP96-00608A large round one. The replacement lamp they sent me is a small BP96-00826A, But the enclosure it came in doese not fit in the TV.
I can put the new little light in the old case useing an adapter.
But I need to know what Ballast I have (eather 100W or 120W)
Where Do I find the ballast to to get this info?
Is it in the TV where you remove the lamp or some where else???
Thanks for any help
I have a HL-P6163wx and over the past few weeks has been turning on very slowly…usually takes several tries. Then it just stopped completely and so I replaced the lamp. This did not do the trick and now I don’t know if it is the ballast or the colorwheel. How do I determine that? There was no odd sounds like I am hearing with a bad colorwheel and I did have the colorwheel replaced a couple years ago. Please help don’t know which one I should replace.
This might be obvious, but did you place the rear lamp cover back on? You know your TV will not work without doing this! If the TV takes longer and longer to turn on this could be the lamp OR ballast, but 90% of the time it is the lamp. I would diagnose this a bit more before running and purchasing a ballast. Tell us more about what is (or was) going on with the TV.
Essentially, what happens with delayed sparking of the lamp…
As the lamp gets older, it requires more voltage to spark or ignite. The arc gap is increased and the mercury vapor is less “responsive” to starting attempts. Two options: give the lamp more power, or #2 purchase a new lamp.
Solution #1 could mean that your lamp is old…and so is your ballast, so getting a fresh new ballast should give it more reliable power. If the ballasts had a nob on the side where you could turn up the voltage that would be great, but that’s not the case
Solution #2 means new lamp – This is the most common problem…but this does not mean it will solve your issues if you’ve got an under performing ballast. It might extend the useful life of the ballast slightly, after which you might incorrectly think you have a “bad lamp”
This could be a bit tricky…always get a new, ORIGINAL (hence, Philips brand) lamp. If that does not solve the problem, get a replacement ballast.
I have a HLN617W tv and need a new bulb. But i have a story…
about 7 months ago i purchased a replacement (BP96-00224A(T)) and when it came in, it was the wrong connector.. so i changed out the connector after being advised to by the tech i spoke from the place of order… (not you guys)… i put the lamp in, and everything has worked fine since…
well, yesterday, the tv suddenly went very dark and while there is a picture, its too dark to really see. I started trying to find a replacement and i am very confused.. looking at the lamp housing that i just removed from my tv, and comparing it to pictures i have the BLACK, round-ish connection so i think that means i have Philips Lamp Enclosure…
I went to the samsungparts.com and if i go by the pictures, i need a BP96-00224j but if i use thier chart based on manufacture date i need the BP96-00224B… but the picture for the 224B has the brown, rectangular design..
I can not find the bulb and housing that first came with my tv… im sure it got thrown out, so i dont have the lamp code from the original housing any more…
can you help me at all..? here is some info:
Model : HLN617W
SVC Model: HLN617W WX/XAA
Manufacter : Mexico April 2003
Lamp enclose that works in unit has the black, rounded connector
I recently acquired a Samsung HL-P5063W which I am trying to repair. The case states it needs a BP96-00608A(P) bulb, but when I took out the new bulb it stated BP96-00826A(P120W).
By my research these bulbs may not be compatible.
When I turn on the TV i get a flashing LAMP signal, and after about 20 seconds I get a STANDBY/TEMP signal, which just cycles and nothing else turns on.
I think my best bet would be to buy a new ballast, and a new bulb… Can you tell me which ones to buy….
My TV suddenly went partially dark, picture color lost and there was a flickering from a wheel-like, fan or something. (Very technical analysis, huh?)
I’ve ordered a new bulb, but inspecting this one, I can’t see that it’s burned out.
Is this possibly a ballast problem…and not the lamp?
Color wheel. Not ballast, nor lamp.
I have a Samsung HLS6187W the unit stoped comming on, the code on the leds in the front of it indicated that the bulb was bad so i bought a new one an original samsung bulb correct bulb code, the unit came on after i powered it back up but the next morning it did not work, i am getting a soft beeping noise from the rear of the unit and the 3 led lights blinking in the front, and it does not power up ,if i pull the plug and and plug it back in, and power it up iw will come on but once it stays off for a long period it will not come on again ,,,,any suggestions
I’m looking to buy a 46″ Samsung DLP used. Which model do you recommend and can I replace these lamps myself?
I have a Samsung DLP 42 inch. The tv had been working fine. Then one day i turned it on, and got the famous blinking lights on the front. I ordered a new bulb BP96-01073A (P120W) When i installed it i still got the blinking lights, then i was told it was probably my ballast. So i ordered a ballast off ebay and installed it. I still got the blinking lights. Then i decided to try my old bulb with the new ballast, still nothing. Is it possible my new bulb that i got was just no good from the get go? Please help!
hello, i have a 60″dlp HLN617WX/XAA. I have replaced the lamp with a new correct lamp. the tv worked for a good 10 minutes and then froze with a black and white screen. i could not turn off the tv by any power button after the tv froze, had to unplug. i plugged the tv in again and nothing, no picture or sound. so what i think is wrong is overheating somewhere. there is one fan i can see thru the rear of the tv, but the others fans i cant see. please help..!!thanks
1) is there a sensor that i can cover up, so i can run the tv without any covers in the back to see if all the fans are working?
My original lamp bp96-00608A blew so I bought the complete new style housing ie BP96-00826A (not just the bulb). After installing this new housing it does not work, are there other differences except the size of the bulbs?
Is my understanding correct that if I get an adaptor, install the new bulb in the old housing this will work?
What do I need to do now to get my new purchase to work?
Hello all great site!. I have an HLP5063 with an outside lamp code BP96-00608A(P). I haven’t pulled the lamp yet to examine unit; I confirm that this is normal. The set was on I left the room and came back in the picture was flickering and making a sound like a vibration. I shut the unit off and after a while it finally powered itself down. I then powered it back up after 15 mins and it now makes that vibration sound and I get no pictures the lamp ligth flashing on the front. When it’s powered down I get all three lights flashing. Is it the lamp or something more serious?
I have a Samsung HLP6163WX/XAA and thought I would change the bulb, suspected some brightness degredation. Lamp code on side of TV is BP96-00608A(P). Turns out the bulb is the larger one. i got a new rplecement bulb with the adapter and installed it correctly, but my colors went insispid and brightness was much lower than the original bulb. I tried every setting, nothing worked so I re-installed the old bulb…. much better!!
So how come a more powerfulll bulb is giving such an inferior color range and brightness. Is there something else I should have done, and can I get one of the old original bulbs instread of the new replacement with adapter?
I have a 61″ Samsung DLP TV that I bought approximately 4yrs ago. Recently it has had a problem where after some time watching the screen will go black. The time it takes has varied from ~10 minutes to just over an hour. Turn TV off by pressing the power button then turn it back on with the power button, the picture is upside down. My original thought was the bulb, but looking at the back of the set, the lamp appears to be on while the picture is black, and I haven’t noticed any dimming. The audio works fine while the picture is out, and none of the three front LEDs indicate any issue.
I have Sumsung hlm507w. When I try to turn it on ,I see a green light comes on for a second or 2 and then I hear a click, light goes off and tv does not turn on at all. I replaced the lamp but it still did not solve the problem. What could be wrong can anyone help?
Please describe the problem in more detail. Is the clicking noise repetitive? Does it do it 2-3 times, then it gives up? Where did you purchase your lamp from? Are you sure you got the proper bulb? (I hope you purchased a Philips)
If you got your lamp from an authorized distributor, then my next guess is that the ballast has failed, but I need more information.
Is there a replacment bulb other than the Osram P=VIP 120/1.3 E23 for my 4+ year old Samsung HLM 617W? The current bulb assembly is an Osram 120W BP96-0024B and the Osram bulbs do not last. Is there a Phillips replacement?
I have the same simptom on my Samsung DLP, There is a sound like vibrating and after 3 attempts of power on, I get the three lights flashing…
Did you get fixed your DLP?
I have a hl-p5067w which is acting up. The STANDBY/TEMP light stays on long after the set has cooled and the BLACK screen is just grey. The screen is to bright. I am sure that there are codes that will reset the unit to original specs or tell you what is wrong. The unit turns on and off fine. Going to the menu I can’t reset the unit to the darker settings. Any suggestions?
I have a Samsung HLR5067Wax TV.. Well it wouldn’t turn on so I figured that I had to change the bulb. After changing the bulb it still wouldn’t turn on so I figured it must be the ballist, I ordered a new ballist and changed out the old one and my TV still won’t turn on. It comes on for a few seconds and then turns off… Any help would be greatly appreciated….
Hyon, I am having the same problem, what did you or anyone come up with as a fix, did it work and is it still working?
By chance, did yuo ever get an answer? My Samsung DLP just went out this evening with the same symptoms you described – only difference is taht my tv hummed.
Humming noise = color wheel. Any other clues apart from humming that might lead us to something else?
I have a Samsung HLN5056X/XAA, 50″ DLP. Bulb # on the side of the TV is BP96 00224C(P). Today as it set was warming up we noticed it was making a bit more noise than normal. We are used to the cooling fan sound but this is a little louder. I don’t think it is the fan but it could be! Could it be the ballast? or do you have any other suggestions? Other that that it appears to function normally.
Do you see any distortion in color? Excessive reds, blues, or greens? IS the noise a humming, whirling, or a screeching sound? These are all signs of a bad color wheel, and the HLN series is nearly 5-6 years old (at least the earliest sold ones are). I think this is the place to start looking. The ballast does not making any audible noise and it sole function is to power on the lamp and it has no moving parts.
I hope this helps, keep me updated.
I have samsung dlp tv, I changed the bulb probably more then a year ago but the bulb warning indicator start flashing and totally blackout on the screen, but to start I didn’t realize that you have to replace the ballast also. I looked at the bulb it seemed the bulb still good no discoloration the wire still intact, I don’t know if the ballast? how easy to changed this ballast, any help, thanks in advance.
Don’t go replacing parts and wasting money for no reason! Tell us in detail what exactly is going on. Try to be as specific as possible.
I need information like:
Make and Model – Date code on the TV helps too
Your original lamp code
What kind of lamp did you replace it with? A Philips, Osram, or another brand? You said about a year ago…can you more more specific?
Physically looking at the lamp isn’t a sure way of diagnosis…lots of times a bad lamp looks like a brand new lamp…I’ll see if I can do an article about this sometime soon to show high resolution pictures comparing a brand new lamp and a lamp that appears “new” or “good” but it is really “blown”
More details please!
I did the same thing but my new BP96-00826A lamp/housing works fine. The lamps are identical in wattage (but different model #printed on them). The housings were identical except for a slightly different shape to the elecrical interfaces (but both apparently fit).
Does anyone have an opinion on whether I’ve made a disastrous mistake by doing this? Is anything going to blow up? I appreciate any answers!
I replaced a BP-00608A(P) with a BP-00826A(P120W) and it works fine.
Steve, you’re fine. The BP96-00608A is no longer in production and was replaced by the BP96-00826A. The BP96-00608A was actually fitted with two different lamps and Samsung was making a transition from using Philips E23 form factor lamps to Philips E22 form factor lamps. You’re fine, don’t stress! 🙂
I ordered a replacement lamp BP96-01653A from discount-merchant and I installed it today. Part numbers are identical except for what I assume to be date codes on the bulbs. This is for my Samsung HL-S4676S DLP set. The picture is dim with the new bulb – I assume I’ll need to check my ballast type to see if I have the lower power version.
However, I removed the new bulb after comparing it with the original. I did not feel it was safe to keep the bulb installed after I compared the new and old bulbs in detail.
Although this is supposed to be a direct replacement, there are some significant differences in the bulb shape. Both bulbs have identical rectangular faces but the original bulb has a smaller parabolic reflector with flat corners. The new bulb has a larger reflector which eliminates the flat corners that makes using the original mounting clips difficult. They must be severely bent to fit into their original positions AND hold the lamp flat to the mounting plate. Both lamps have ventilation ports – the original lamp has them aligned with the ventilation path, the new lamp positions them 90 degrees from the original. Basically the new lamp has no flow-through ventilation when mounted in the enclosure.
Bending the clips isn’t that big a deal to me. However, I was not comfortable knowing the new bulb would retain much more heat because of the new placement of the ventilation ports.
I haven’t checked yet but I’m hoping that ordering a new lamp + enclosure will resolve the ventilation issue. Any advice or insight?
You shouldn’t have any problems with the new lamp. Each lamp is specificly designed not to overheat, but if you feel uncomfortable then I would recommend buying the lamp and enclousure. Also, you need to check your ballast because of the dim light problem you’re having. It may be going out on you.
I just installed a new ballast along with the new lamp. Picture is still dim. I am not a optics engineer but I believe that larger parabolic body of the replacement lamp is focusing less light into the light wheel.
I will probably seek out a local Samsung service center rather than continue on this path. Discount-merchant.com has good prices but they are helpless to with this issue. They are not a repair shop and cannot offer any advice beyond replacing widgets.
Also your comment about “designed not to overheat” misses the point. These lamps run very hot but if there is inadequate ventilation how can you say it will not retain more heat and, as a result, have a shorter lifespan. If I run my PC’s CPU with inadequate ventilation it will die a quicker death than with proper ventilation. These lamps are no different.
Whatever the resolution, I appreciate the response and will report back as the situation changes.
Can you post pictures of your old lamp and the new lamp? The Samsung BP96-01653A uses a Philips 132/120 1.0 UHP lamp. The replacement you purchased should be the same wattage/voltage. If this is not the case, problem found. If you have the 120/100W lamp, you know that ballast/lamp combo is the problem.
IF you do have the proper E22 form factor, 132W lamp, I would be very interested in seeing actual pictures comparing the two lamps. Checking with Discount-Merchant.com, I know that they only sell the original lamp for that part number…so this is very interesting.
You are absolutely correct about cooling. UHP lamps reach extremely high temperatures and they should never be handled immediately after use. You Samsung has one or two internal cooling fans, one of which should be situated somewhere close to the ballast/lamp region. Though your TV should give you blinking error lights in case one is defective, I would double check these as well…although realistically, this isn’t going to be the source of your problem.
The number would reason for a DIM picture on a Samsung is if you are using the improper lamp/ballast combo…and I suspect this is the case here. Remember your DLP TV has only a few components inside it:
DMD, Light Tunnel, Light Engine (optics)
I have never head the optics going bad resulting in a DIM picture on a Samsung DLP TV. The color wheel is also ruled out because using you will see a distorted picture of the bearing on the wheel are bad and the timing is thrown off. Since we know the ballast is in charge of turning on the lamp, and the two are extremely interdependent on one another, I would closely examine these first.
I’m looking forward to your feedback Paul.
I have a Samsung HLM507W purchased 2004 with serial code 31DTC02256E. In early 2006 both the color wheel and bulb were replaced. Bulb model was BP96-00224A(T).
A couple weeks ago the TV started making a little more noise at start up and continued while it was on. Possibly a fan running faster but different than the high pitched sound it was making when color wheel went out. Then a couple days a go picture went black and I got the three flashing lights on front. I unplugged it and then it turned on again but after only a few minutes picture again went black. I did not notice any color or picture distortion. Manual says flashing lights means I need a new bulb again but the sound and fact that I get a picture for several minutes concerns me. Would I even be getting a picture if the bulb was burnt out? Would fan run faster if bulb was faulty? Also I remember that the tech who fixed it last time told me that he replaced my first generation color wheel with the upgraded version that no longer had the moving parts that made the original prone to failure. Any suggestions?
I have a Samsung HLS5686, and the bulb went out finally after 11,000 hours. we used the bulb code on the side and ordered a new bulb. It was a phillips also, installed it, and the tv comes on, but with a very dark picture, i reset the factory settings bulb hours ect….but nothing makes it brighter. the old bulb says UHP 132/120, and the new one says UHP 120/132…..did we just get the wrong bulb sent? bulb code is bp96-01472A(p132w)
It seems to me you have received the correct bulb and done everything right. Unless the part number was not the same as the part number on the new lamp you received. So next to check would be your ballast. Your ballast is what gives the lamp the power to ignite and shine light on your TV screen. So if it’s not working to it’s full capabilities then that could be causing your dim picture.
Recently replaced my lamp in a HLM507W. After about a month of use the TV made a loud pop noise with a burnt odor. I took the TV apart looking for any obvious culprits. After finding no burn marks and than finding your site I noted that in the past I have replaced with a Toshiba bulb with no problems (I also verified that I have the Toshiba ballast). I ordered BP96-00224A from ebay and the suspect bulb is not labeled Toshiba. The only marking is R63370050802 and “APO” on the bulb. Bulb looks fine, ballast fires trying to start the lamp but no picture. Also sounds like the color wheel is still spinning and not abnormally loud. Where should I start to trouble shoot? I also noticed that other sites say that the bulbs are inner changeable between the BP96-00224a (Toshiba) and BP96-00224C (Philips).
It actually may be your color wheel. Even though you don’t hear the loud humming or buzzing your color wheel can also cause your TV not to turn on. Is it making a winding or whirring noise? Do you hear a clicking noise when you start your TV? Please get back to us with more information. Thanks.
I replaced the Lamp for my Samsung DLP TV HL-S5086W, but the TV didn’t go on and I hear a whirring noise coming for 5 or 8 sec. then shut off itself. What could it be?
Thanks for the quick reply. I may have been incorrect stating that the ballast is firing. I picked up another DLP for another room (HLN5065WX with the Philips ballast and bulb) and if I pull the bulb from that TV its obvious when the ballast is firing. I do this with the broken set and I don’t hear the ballast firing. Still possiably the color wheel? I suspect the new bulb may have blew the ballast. Is this typical? I noticed there is a upgraded ballast/lamp kit (BP96-00435A) for my TV that would switch it over to Philips. If I did this would I be able to use my APO bulp as a backup or does this fall into the catagory of non-interchangeable Toshiba/Philips bulbs? Thanks for your help.
You’re welcome. No I’d have to say it’s your ballast thanks for providing more information this helps us to help you figure out your problem faster. It’s not possible for your lamp to blow your ballast. I would recommend switching to Philips because their products tend to last and will save you money in the long run. It is possible to use your old lamp as a back up but, it would depend on the wattage of your new ballast and the wattage on your APO lamp. They would have to match otherwise then it would be possible for the ballast to blow the lamp if the wattage is not the same. Hope this helps you out.
This is my last hope and am keeping my fingers crossed that you guys can help me! The lamp blew and we replaced it, then when we turned the tv on, we heard the grinding/screaching noise that on all other sites points to the color wheel. We then bought a new color wheel & replaced it to only turn the TV on and have the grinding/screaching continue (note that the picture comes in fine, etc). Does this mean its the ballast? Any other suggestions before the bat comes out of the garage!? Thanks for your help!
If it was your ballast your TV would not come on. It may be your color wheel. Did you install it yourself? You may have installed it improperly. Also, did you buy the color wheel with the enclosure it comes in or just by itself? Please get back to us. Thanks.
I have a Samsung HLP6163 DLP TV. I had purchased both a replacement Lamp and Fan from Samsung parts before the screen went black because the lights on the front of the TV are showing LAMP and FAN, so when the screen went black, I simply replaced the lamp. I could not see an easy way to replace the fan, so I just replaced the lamp and plugged the TV back in. Right away the TV gave me the happy sound and it was back to operating and looks great! The problem is the LAMP and FAN lights are still lit on the front panel. My TV also is showing a light somewhat conical shaded area of the screen starting from the bottom middle of the screen and moving up. It is getting bigger and bigger very slowly. A repair service center told me that my DLP TV needed to be realigned which would cost $800. I will put $800 into a new TV, thanks very much! Besides this shaded area, the screen looks great. So…why are the LAMP and FAN lights still lit? Note that the TV is NOT making any unusual noises, as in the color wheel failure noises. Thanks for your help.
It sounds to me like it could be your DMD chip. Your DMD chip houses millions of micro mirrors that reflect light on to your TV screen. It tilts back and forth extremely quick reflecting light so your TV gets an excellent picture. From what your telling me it seems like this is your problem. If you have anymore information please get back to us. Thanks.
The only information I have is that the LAMP and FAN lights are still lit, both before I replaced and lamp and after I replaced the lamp. And the lighter blotch in the middle of the screen – I don’t know how else to describe it. It is just a slightly lighter image of what is being displayed, like though a screen, but just in the middle section. It looks like and upside down X squared function. The screen came back nice and bright after I replaced the bulb. The best part of the bulb replacement was the happy sound the TV made when I plugged it back in to the outlet. I fully expected the LAMP light to go out on the front panel, but it remainded lit along with the FAN light to this day.. I replaced the lamp about one year ago. I assume you sell the DMD replacement board. I keep waiting to hear the wild banshee sound of my color wheel going out. Did the HLP6163 get the newer air bearing color wheel? Thanks for your help.
It’s most likely just the DMD chip. The board and chip are different the chip is on the DMD board. They can cause you warning lights to come on also. When you replaced the lamp did you check to see if your old lamp was even broken? Just because the indicator light come on it doesn’t necessarily mean that’s what your problem is. There are many different problems that can cause the lights to come on so don’t just go buying things until you know what the actual problem is. You don’t want to spend extra money on things you don’t need.
I did not replace the lamp until the screen went black. When I replaced the lamp, the screen came back, nice and bright, but I still have that shadowing effect and the LAMP and FAN lights are stil lit, so I may need to replace the DMD chip. Do you offer the DMD chip for my HLP6163? Thanks for your help.
We are just a site that helps people solve their problems we do not sell lamps or any kind of parts. You will have to go to another site like discount-merchant or somewhere else. You’re welcome.
I looked at some forums on the subject of DMD chip replacement. It looks like the service technitions replace the whole DMD board due to the complexity and time consuming nature of the repair. Also a TI memo that I read online spoke to a heat issue with the older model DMD chips – if the temperature is not kept at 65 degrees then the lifetime of the DMD chip is dramatically reduced. But the problems that are described regarding DMD chip issue are random white or black dots or pixels. I do not see this failure mode. Mine is quite different and not descriped in the forums. Thanks again.
I purchased a new bulb assembly but before I could put it in the tv developed another problem. Tv still makes noise and shuts off every few days and has three blinking lights on front but now the color is distorted. Blue is green and blacks are pink….Is it the color wheel again?
By saying is it the color wheel again I assume you have replaced it already. How long ago did you replace it? Is your TV making any strange noises? Get back to me with more information please.
I have a Samsung HLM507W purchased 2004. In early 2006 both the color wheel and bulb were replaced by authorized technician. A month ago the TV started making a little more noise at start up and continued while it was on. Slightly different than the high pitched sound it was making when color wheel went out. Then the picture went black but I had sound. I also got the three flashing lights on front. I unplugged it and then it turned on again but after a few days the picture again would go black. Prior to that I did not notice any color or picture distortion. I ordered the replacement toshiba bulb and continued to just unplug it ever few days as needed until one day the colors were all wacky. I have not put in the new bulb yet because the color shift and noise makes me think it’s the color wheel. Also if it means anything the tech who fixed it last time told me that he replaced my first generation color wheel with the upgraded version that no longer had the ball bearings that made the original prone to failure.
Yes, I would say it’s your color wheel. It may even just be a little dusty, which can cause the weird color issues. I’m positive it’s not your lamp because if it were your lamp you wouldn’t get any picture at all. So I would suggest a new color wheel. Also, I would call the company that replaced it for you and see if it’s under warrenty especially since it was the upgraded one that may not fail. Let me know what you decide.
I plugged it in again yesterday and the picture only came on for a couple minutes before going black. However the colors were now fine. I can see the color wheel when I pull out the bulb and it doesn’t look look damaged. It does look like it has a little dust on it but overall it seemed pretty clean. Is there an easy way to get to this part and give it a better inspection?
So your saying the picture is fine now, but your TV will not stay on? You could use one of those can air dusters and blow the dust away from your color wheel. I think you might have a problem with your Ballast. Get back to me.
Yes the picture looked fine for the brief time it worked. There is a piece of glass between the bulb housing and the color wheel housing. How do I blow the dust away?
When you turn on your TV do you hear any clicking or other noises?
No clicking other than the initial start up sounds but there is a “wizzing” sound that is slightly louder than normal.
Is the wizzing sound consistant? If so I really think it may be your color wheel. There are so many problems with these Samsung DLP’s it’s unbelieveable!
Wizzing sound is consistant. Company that fixed it last time is no longer in business so I can’t determine if there was any warranty on the part. Are there any tests I can perform to determine if this in fact the problem. I already spent 120 on a bulb and it looks like a color wheel will be almost as much. I’d hate to keep buying the wrong parts over and over.
I can’t diagnose your problem completely without being there to see and hear it myself you know what I mean. Go to http://www.fixyourdlp.com/forum and post your questions.
I have the older Toshiba bulb setup and I have two working bulbs. Both bulbs will light up only sometimes. I hear the color wheel spin up (I replaced this last year) and the a clicking sound that will repeat about every 12 seconds. It does this a few times and then all three lights on the front flash. I believe it is the ballist AA47-00008A. My question is, if I have to buy a new ballast should I update to the Panisonic type?
Having a hard time deciding which part to buy next the ballast or the colorwheel. Have a samsung dlp about 2 1/2 – 3 years old. TV popped, shut down with 3 blinking lights, people that were there said they also smelled a slight burning odor. So of course we ordered and replaced the lamp. Still doesnt work, heres what happens – tv turns on tries to power up (sometimes does sometimes doesnt sometimes takes longer than other times) a little bit of whizzing noise that goes away, picture comes in and within 30 seconds goes out sometimes it just shuts down and 3 lights flash other times picture goes out and audio is still there for a few seconds longer before it shuts down and the lights begin to flash…..Any suggestions……..Really dont want to order unnecessary replacement parts as it seems I already did for the lamp itself and samsung customer service was absolutely positively not helpful at all. Desparate for a clue as to what we should do next colorwheel? Ballast? Power Supply? HELP!
Reason I have to ask is because as I was reading and reading about this problem everywhere, obviously it is very common with these tvs, I originally thought – OK – Ballast – But after reading everything here I am wondering if it is something else because the TV comes on and Picture comes on – granted for a few seconds but it does and then the tv shuts down – what is making it shut down??? Felt I should explain more…….Should I look at something further inside the tv to see if it may indicate which direction to take……?
oh forgot to mention in order for it to shut off u have to unplug it cause once u turn it on it will keep trying to restart itself……
My tv went out and has 3 lights blinking which indicated the bulb. I am unable to turn the tv on to check the hours because it goes out as soon as the bulb iluminates. I purchased the bulb under a year ago so it should still be good. Is it the ballast? is there any way we can check this? any suggestions would be helpful. I have model #hln4365wx Thanks
I have a samsung dlp that keeps blowing the small fuse on the powerboard. I had the board looked over by two different techs that said it is fine and my problem has to be a different board. After getting into the tv I noticed the two red wires of the ballast had identical discoloration marks about a quarter inch in size. I also noticed that the gray filter partnumber zcat2035 was no longer around the wires but instead open and hanging on them. Could this cause my fuse blowing problem?
ok, here is my problem with my Samsung HL-5086wx/xaa lamp code BP96-01472a (P132w). Turn on the TV starts fine bright good picture for 30 seconds every time. shuts down with red stand by/temp light blinking and lamp blinking. these indcate lamp cover not properly shut. i have check this and jumped out the switch. the same thing happens. Ok then i vacuumed and blow all the dust out. it is very clean. same problem no change. the fans seem to be working i have no messages on the srceen about the fans but the are turning ok. it seems to act like its heating up and shuting down. is the the lamp or some kind of thermo shut down sensor thay can be relaced? tv runs from 6am to midnight just about every day. no parts have been changed out during its life. if its the lamp why dont all the lights blink per the manual. any sugestions??
I have a DLP toshiba 52hmx84 that uses TB25-LMP lamp, and since you discussed that toshiba and philips lamp are interchangable can I use a philips lamp for my tv instead because the replacement lamp of toshiba does not last long. Please advice.
Unfortunately, Philips doesn’t make a DC lamp. The Toshibas are all DC and you’re stuck with a few brands with questionable reliability.
I have a Samsung HLT 50/76 SX/XAA and have the dreaded three light blink is there a way to test the lamp? maybe ohming the filiment. Mine shows open but I don’t have a good one to compare. After reading other peoples problems all day I am not sure if I want to throw good money after bad, seems that replacing just the lamb is rarely the fix.
I just replaced my bulb in a Samsung hl-s5686w due to dimming picture. The lamp is a BP96-01472A (P132W). The replacement is identicle in every way. With the new lamp the set turns off after 20~30 seconds and flashes all 3 lights. The temp sensor is not opening and its not the dust cover switch. I install the old bulb and everything is back to the way it was..dim picture. Could the ballast be weak and cause the shutdown?
Not sure if anyone’s will respond any more, but I have a problem w/ my Samsung 51″ DLP I bought in 2006.
Over the last 2 years, the TV intermittently shuts off. Sometimes it’s flashes lamp, sometimes nothing.
Some days, it won’t even stay on 1 minute; while others it will stay on forever.
I’ve replaced the lamp(BP96-00826A(P)) once before with no luck.
The problem just seemed to go away on its own.
However, now it’s back and I’m not sure what to do.
I’m overseas and it’s difficult to find a TV repair man where I live?
Any ideas what’s causing this?
Hi Dr. P,
I’ve read about this problem, it was a known bug of some Samsung DLPs of that era.
You could try some crossreferenced searching to nail it down. If I recall, the root of the trouble was in some power supplys becoming weak with age and use.
My Samsung DLP just started making a very loud vibrating sound when I turn it on. Like someone is power sanding the wall behind the TV! There is still a picture, but the quality is not nearly as good. Very blurry/grainy.
Does anyone know what this is? I initially thought the bulb as I heard they go frequently. But I still get a picture and if the bulb went my guess is I would get no picture. So is it the color wheel??? The noise I hear seems a lot more pronounced than many of the posts I have read about the color wheel.
The noise you hear is most definatly your color wheel as the picture is blurry as you state. I have an HLP6163WX/XAA and I’ve gone though, a color wheel, 2 bulbs, and a DMD board. I’m on my 3rd bulb, and now I fear a ballast is in order. your issue is an easy fix, I AM NOT BY ANY MEANS AN EXPERT, I just say the color wheel based on personal experiance and reading may excerpts on line.
My tv went out about 9 months ago and I finally ordered a replacement lamp with housing for the Samsung HLP6163WX model. I took out the old lamp with housing and inserted the new one. When I press the power button the tv, the tv won’t come one. But once the tv is plugged into the power outlet, there is a flashing message on the power button that says, Lamp Standby/Temp. It appears that the problem is the lamp since the element in the old lamp was crackled inside. Before the tv went out months ago, it did not make any audible noises. It just stopped turrning on.
My Samsung HLS6186W DLP randomly shut off and wouldn’t turn back on. I replaced lamp and now it just clicks once and about 15 seconds later the three lights flash on the front. Is this a ballast issue? I’ve since bought a new TV, but would love to get this working again and put it in another room. Thanks.
I have a Samsung HLM5065WX. I purchase a lamp that was Philips and after reading this forum notice that was the wrong lamp for my housing. I also purchase a new ballast and the new ballast does not fit the connector. The new connector fits a Philips. My question is there any place that I can purchase a new connector being that the housing is the same.
if there is no reading from my continuity meter, does that mean a blown bulb? thanks
i have a 50 inch samsung slim dip with lamp code BP96-01653A(P132W) my tv won’t turn on just the lamp and power button flicker i have recently bought a new lamp and installed it and my tv started working again now just went to turn it on and the same thing is happening again i am wondering if my seller sold me a bad light bulb or is there any my tv is defecting the light bulb?
I have a HL-S6167W, same o same o problems, watching it one night and it just went out, three lites blinkin, manual says lamp bad, changed lamp to the tune of $125.00. I had a great pict for bout 20 min. than bam, no pict again. Unpluged it, waited awhile, turned it on, great pict. for bout 10 min., than shut downville again. Cleaned all dust, cleaned fan, reset lamp, checked fan operation, works good, pluged it in turned it on, and it goes right to three lites blinking mode. Have to unplug it to shut it down. Do you think it could be the ballast? No noise except the fan and a very faint high pitch beeping like an alarm clock. Can’t set the lamp timer as directed because it shuts down before I can get to the options menu. Any suggestions?
How does the newer small square philips bulbs fit into the housing for the large round bulbs? I noticed that the adapter is no longer available?
I’ve asked my expert to contact you to discuss this particular philips lamp and get you set up with a new lamp.
What is your model number? I can ask one of my experts to find your model and arrange for a lamp. I’ve asked one of them to contact you.
I have a Samsung DLP 55 inch. I replaced the bulb myself. It seemed if the bulb was secured properly however, I began to smell a plastic smell. When I re-opened the TV it looked like the connector that the bulb inserts into was melting. Is there a way to replace the connector. The bulb is fine
If the connector is part of the whole lamp casing then you will need to replace the whole unit. I would return it to the manufacturer and ask for a refund. The fact that the plastic melted indicates it may be a counterfeit product. That shouldn’t have happened with an authentic OEM product. Are the TV connectors ok? If they were affected you may need to replace the T-con board or ballast wheel. I suggest you visit our forum for more information. There are experts there who can help you determine exactly what the damage has been.
I have a Samsung projection TV, on the enclosure for the lamp it has this lamp code: BP96-00224S(P). I understand that the ‘P’ stands for Philips, but nowhere in your article, nor in my internet searches have I been able to find the ‘S’ part of the code listed … has this lamp been discontinued, or replaced by one of the other more ubiquitous model/codes? I’d like to go ahead and purchase this now, but I don’t want to have to go back and forth with the retailer over getting the wrong lamp. Also, should I replace the ballast as well? This is an older DLP TV.
Please disregard the previous comment, I re-checked the number myself (originally the number was relayed by phone and either I misinterpreted, or the label was misread. The lamp is actually a rather common bp96-00224c(p). Sorry for the bother.
I ordered a BP96-00224E replacement bulb from Amazon, but I was sent a BP96-00224C bulb instead. Are these bulbs compatible?
I just saw your post on the dangers on counterfeit bulbs. Now I’m even more concerned. The bulb I purchased is a Lutema premium bulb.
I believe that Lutema premium bulb are manufactured by MI Tecnologies in San Diego. They are an approved OEM manufacturer so you have nothing to worry about!
I believe these bulbs are compatible since that last letter. The original lamp was C series and E is the latest model. If should be fine. What company did you buy it from? Some have better return policies that others.